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dowww's Logbook (585 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: First Creek Canyon: Alcohol Wall

Gin Ricky Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Gin Ricky new

One of Red Rock's finer crack pitches. The first 40' goes quick and easy, save your small stuff! Handren references double's to 4" which does not make sense. A single to 4" with doubles or triples from C4 .3 to .5 and a couple of Metolius 0's or equivalant. I placed no wires and only had one Metolius 0 and got along fine. The crux is a few meters of Metolius 0 in the middle of the route which is too small for tips for me. Just so happens to be the most blank spot for feet as well. I did an odd arm stem off of a suspect left toe and sprung up for a right hand edge. I thought it a tough crux move for the grade. After that, a sweet ride with more or less 5.9 corner climbing. The last move was kind of cool. Fixed hanging rap, but I suggest pulling out of the corner to the rap nest above with a comfortable belay. This comfortable belay will set you up for a single 70m rap to the fixed rap on top of Straight Shot, thus no need for doubles.

Added: 2014-04-12

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: First Creek Canyon: Lotta Balls Wall

Bruja's Brew Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Baja's Brew new

Voodoo Doo is the best route on this wall, Black Magic 2nd and Baja's Brew and Lotta Balls tie for 3rd. The roof of course is the feature. Clip off a cam in the left side of the roof with a double runner. Make the fun (crux) traverse right to the arete and reach back and add another sling to avoid rope drag. You get one horizontal piece before the rusty (2014) hanger. Then angle up and right avoiding Lotta Ball's fixed station to the left. Head for the short yellow corner and belay from a fixed station above a stance. The 2nd pitch is mostly straight up the dishes and easy face climbing with plenty of pro when you need it. If Black Magic is busy, build your station in the main crack between Lotta Balls and Black Magic about 30-40' below the roof. This sets you up for angling right and just avoid the fixed station for Black Magic so you can pull the bulge above, hit the ramp going back left and avoid any traffic jams. There is one bolt at the start of this ramp and plenty of pro opportunities. Double sling anything you place as you will not pull onto the yellow face above until above that crack you belayed at below creating tons of rope drag if you don't use common sense. Belay in a 3-4" crack above. We un-roped and soloed this large crack to the top.

Added: 2014-04-12

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: Willow Springs: Outhouse Wall

Karate Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Karate Crack new

Great trad pitch for this area. The crux is getting started. It is a bit blind moving into the twin cracks from the right. You can get a C4#1 in before making the move. Easy climbing gets you up to the fun overhanging hand crack. Feet are always there and hands are bomber, but challenging for the novice crack climber no doubt. Rap the tree to the left. Decent morning shade in April.

Added: 2014-04-12

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Snow Canyon: JOHNSON'S ARCH

Trouble No More 5.10a (two pitches) Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-03-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Trouble No More

This is the best trad route in Snow Canyon. The first pitch stems up twin cracks with small, but good pro to a comfortable ledge with a fixed station. The second pitch is an Indian Creek quality corner of mostly C4#.75-1's. You will not get a #2 in until the top. Climb out to the ledge out right. The rap anchor is way out right offering a free air (full single 60m rope makes it, no need for double ropes as stated here) rap back to the base. There has been a 3rd pitch added up through the roof, you can see its fixed rap from the trail.

Added: 2014-03-09

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: Snow Canyon: JOHNSON'S ARCH

Highlander 5.10d hard Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-03-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Highlander

One of the best trad pitches in Snow Canyon. Hard to beat Atomic Indian for a pure corner/splitter, but this route is much longer and more varied. The rock is exceptional for Snow Canyon and quite clean. You could sew it up with triple .3's and .4's which take you through the crux section below the roof which is a body wide flare with a finger crack in the back for several meters. The pull itself is not to bad. I prefer to take the crack direct, possible to stem no doubt which must have been Ron's preferred method as he set a pin way out right. This pitch protects very well with modern gear and there is no need to clip that single fixed pin. Chained anchor is in good shape in 2014. Canyoneers have another fixer rap at the top of the black cap stone above. 60m rope works fine.

Added: 2014-03-07

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Sheep Pass: Saddle Rocks

Unicorner Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Unicorner

Unicorner is a great route to combine for day with Wanna Bong and Santa Cruz. It is by far the easiest of these three (counting my version of Santa Cruz which adds a pitch), but they all are moderate true trad lines within minutes of each other. I placed a #6 (needed it for Wanna Bong), but could have gotten by without it. You pop out of the off-width to easy stem-face climbing to a fixed anchor, the same fixed anchor that can be used for just about any route on the main Saddle Rock dome.

Added: 2014-02-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Sheep Pass: Saddle Rocks

Wanna Bong Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wanna Bong

With Josh J. from Vegas. A fantastic route, off-width just does not get its due at Jtree for some reason. I used two C4#3's, and a #4-#6 for the upper portion. This pitch is fantastic how it starts out .75 and goes to #6 at the top. As the off-width starts to get a bit burly, face the left wall and stem and chimney up the rest of the way. We moved a slung rap off the east side to the very top of this route (keep going up left) and slung a feature there, 70m no worries.

Added: 2014-02-17

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Sheep Pass: Saddle Rocks

Santa Cruz Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Santa Cruz

With Josh J. from Vegas. I don't think Miramontes has this route quite listed right, mentions doing it in one pitch, 200' total. I continued up a superb crack after 200' that does not seem to belong to any other route and seems in line with the topo as drawn in his book. 300' to the top where you can rap down the north face at Unicorner or stop after the steep crack ends on the west facing wall and scramble down (left) to the top of Iconoclast's rap anchors and make two raps with a 70m. The first pitch did not seem 5.9 by Jtree standards and can be combined with the 5th class 2nd pitch easy. The third pitch was fantastic, fingers with a hand jam rest here and there up through a bulge to great hands and an easy finish.

Added: 2014-02-17

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Sheep Pass: Saddle Rocks

Space Mountain Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Space Mountain

Rated 5.10a in Miramontes book, and I thought it was stout for the Jtree grade, so concur with the 5.10b here. Best not to place gear on the route to avoid rope drag, there is a bolt on top of the ledge. The move from that bolt to the face is the first crux (awkward). The traverse back left over the ledge/pod is a reachy crux face move. A third cruxy edge move awaits near the top. A sustained and pumpy face climb. Rap with a 70m.

Added: 2014-02-17

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Queen Mountain: Lower Walt

Perfect Fingers Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-02-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Perfect Fingers

With Josh J. from Vegas. The easiest "classic" 5.10a I have led at Jtree, assume that has something to do with it being a younger route. Did it as the sun went down and its position gave me a spectacular sunset! Also ran into some bats in the upper portion where it jogs right. I used a Metolius 00 and off set nut to protect the start which I suppose is the crux to the route.

Added: 2014-02-17

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