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dowww's Logbook (597 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Idaho: Twin Falls: City of Rocks National Reserve: King on the Throne Rock

Z Cracks Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Z Cracks

This is 5.9 in the book and I concur (not 5.10). Fun short crack. Jams and stemming reach a junction. Jam the left enough to stem back right and pull a jug to the top above the closed corner section. Can set a gear top rope for others to the right with a #3 and #4.

Added: 2014-07-03

Routes: North America: United States: Idaho: Twin Falls: City of Rocks National Reserve: King on the Throne Rock

Double Cracks Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Double Cracks

Good trad route by City standards. Good fingers and sloping feet get you past the first few crux meters to jams and easier climbing. .2, .3, .4 and .5 does the trick with a few larger pieces on the easier ground. You can sling a feature up left to set up a top rope for others and there is a fixed rap traversing right a few meters as well.

Added: 2014-07-03

Routes: North America: United States: Nevada: Red Rock Canyon: SandStone Quarry: Sandy Corridor

Chrysler Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: dowww on 2014-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Chrysler Crack

On Site solo with the Urioste clan cheering me on...we had a short window one particularly 100F day and Danny knows I like the wide...very comfortable solo, left chicken wing will take you 3/4's of the way.

Added: 2014-05-17

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Central: Sedona Spires: Dry Creek Area

The Big Corner Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The Big Corner

The second pitch of the Big Corner is one of the finer pitches at the grade near Sedona. The first pitch is not all as bad as folks make it out. I have seen much worse. Leading the 2nd pitch, I placed one of just about everything from Metolius 0 to a C4#4. The only doubles I recommend are the C4#.4 and the Metolius 0 equivalents. I placed no wires myself. It was a plug and go kind of route. For me the off width was no worries and the crux would be the tips finish. But like has been mentioned elsewhere, the key is face climbing out right for a meter or two at the very top and stemming off of the corner. Good stuff indeed.

Added: 2014-04-26

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Central: Sedona Spires: Dry Creek Area

Free Beer Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Free Beer

A single pitch that is easy to add to a days worth of climbing at Dry Creek Spires, and worthy. Climb the bolts with the crux move coming right before a huge handle that mantles you up and into the fun crack above. The face climbing is much more technical than the crack climbing. Stem up the crack and either jam or layback the large flake and exit up and right to the tree. The single rope rap is just down and left from the tree.

Added: 2014-04-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Real Hidden Valley: Sports Challenge Rock

Clean and Jerk Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Clean and Jerk

I consider this the hardest 5.10 I have climbed at Jtree to date. Miramonte’s guide discusses a “bouldery and run out start” which is obviously the crux of the climb. A crash pad would be handy on this one. There are a couple of horizontal placements including a C4#2 down low that semi protects the 2nd and 3rd moves. Once in the crack above, it is strenuous, but enjoyable hands and fingers to the roof. The FA version goes right which is sort of a sliding chimney deal. Best to bring the 2nd up on this one and scramble down climbers left.

Added: 2014-04-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Real Hidden Valley: Sports Challenge Rock

Championship Wrestling Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Championship Wrestling

If you like off-width, Championship, despite how short it is, is a must do at Jtree where there are few to be had. The crux is at the start (fist jamming) to work your way into the crack. From there it is all gravy via knees, chicken wings and heel and toe. I placed three pieces on the entire pitch, 2 C4#4’s and 1 C4#5. There is a slung rap down and to climbers right.

Added: 2014-04-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Hidden Valley Campground: The Wall

Hands Off Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Hands Off

Short, but good. This is one of my choices for teaching trad leading on.

Added: 2014-04-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Hidden Valley Campground: The Wall

Chalk Up Another One Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Chalk up Another One

I never clip bolts, but this route is worthy. Very fun angling slab with the crux up and left. From below it looks like there will be more pronounced features, but once traversing left through it, it is tricky. Side pull right as I recall and reach high left. Might want your sport shoes for this one even though the crux is short lived. The flare up high is easy climbing with no need for gear.

Added: 2014-04-18

Routes: North America: United States: California: Joshua Tree National Park: Echo Tee: Echo Cove

Effigy Too Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-16 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Effigy Too

The most difficult 5.10a I have done at Jtree and I have climbed over a hundred of them. Of course, it is just the cruxy start as is typical. I am not a boulderer or sport climber and there is definitely a specific sequence to follow before you can enter the crack above. A Metolious #0 can be placed from the ground, but then the route offers decking potential if you fail before your next placement. I am 5'11" and chose to use an insecure hand jam in a short flaring crack off left, right foot stemming up the obvious feature with a bounce to a finger ledge. One more pumpy move gets you to positive ground. The crack is straight forward after all that excitement. Walk off to the right.

Added: 2014-04-18

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