ferriskil's Logbook (15 ascents)

Got the send using what was likely the worst sequence/beta. Made it feel way harder than it is. Great 12a. Solid grade. Juggy and overhung. :)

Since I've been logging my routes, this is the 14th 5.12 I have ticked off. And one of the hardest. The first half of the route isn't too difficult, but will defiantly give you a pump. Recover the best you can at the big crack/break and move as quickly as you can through the last two bolts for the main crux. Ohh, and surprise - have fun trying to top out on slippery sloppy crimps!!!! ;)

Big move right off the deck to a very small slot (blind throw). The most frustrating thing about working this route is just sticking the first move. Once you get a solid purchase on the first throw, you can cruise to the anchors. Short people: avoid this route or send it and call it 12c.

Boulder problem off the deck: V5-
Crimpy crux in middle: 10b
Wonderful break.
Top crux / mantle (left variation): 10c
Small runout on easy terrain to anchors.

Overall grade: 5.12b IMO

Good and short. Seriously though, I think I held my breath from the 2nd bolt to the dyno! Don't stress the R rating, swinging into the rock or hitting the ground from the dyno would suck, but you aren't risking your life. Unless your legs are as weak as Kevin Ware's, you'll be fine. Note my low rating under "exposure." ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1I46lOr65o
Here's me getting it on my 3rd go! ...yeah, I'm one of those guys who occasionally sets up gopros when I climb. Lame, I know.

Woah! 11a turns to 12a on just two extra feet of climbing! I got the send, but unfortunately looked like a seal topping out on a boulder gasping for air.

This one has it all. Crimps, jugs, caves, slopers and some of the coolest rock formations (at the anchors) in the park.

Route will go up easy if you have a wide wingspan. Felt soft to me.

One of the greatest 5.12a's I have been on. Opening moves to gain bolt #2 are amazing. Gaining bolt #3 requires some good reach. Love it!

Really? 5.10d? Maybe that was true at one time - but since then I guess every hold must have been pulled off of the route.

5.11d if you work the crux slightly left at the last bolt.
5.12a if you work the crux straight up / slightly right of last bolt.

Other than the clipping stances, this route is a breeze compared to some of the other 12s in the area.

Plus: if you have small fingers, this will be an easy .12 to bag.

Rock quality on this route is amazing - which is especially surprising for this wall, which looks so crumbly. In fact, most of the routes at Urban are much better quality than people give them credit for.

I'd call it 12a: although it's really thin, it's slightly forward leaning.

Anyway, this route was a very fun problem to solve. Nice sequence to learn. Very crimp intensive as well as some very technical footwork. Every time I work a new route at Urban, I always find myself pleasantly surprised.

I would love to know the last time this was climbed prior to my ascent. I would not be surprised if it had not been touched for years knowing the history of this wall. MORE PEOPLE NEED TO CLIMB HERE!