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johnnyb336's Logbook (151 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Stone Mountain State Park: South Face

The Pulpit popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Cold and Windy

I know that I have been on this route a few too many times but it is just a great route for newbies. I brought along a friend's 11 year old son that was dying to climb to the top and I wanted something a little better than the Arch or No Alternative. We changed it up a bit and climbed the last three pitches of Autumn Speaks instead of the usual finish. I lead each pitch, the kid followed me, and my regular climbing partner followed last. While it was just routine for us, it was the greatest thing ever for the kid. For me, that is what climbing is all about.

Added: 2013-12-19

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Stone Mountain State Park: South Face

PF Flyers Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Just Messing Around

I am not very keen on top-roping at Stone as it completely removes the the entire mental aspect of slab climbing. However, I have mellowed a little after witnessing a death here last year (not a climber) and falling on this same route exactly one week later.

I had previously lead the very runout first pitch twice. The first time, I just didn't feel good at the headwall on the second pitch and retreated. The second time, it began raining as I was about 30' up with zero gear on 5.10 rock. I attempted to downclimb and made it to about the 20' mark but couldn't go any further without jumping off. Thankfully, the rain stopped and I was able to continue back up. I finally made it to the first piece of pro, a shared bolt with Grand Funk and good 75' off the deck. I was quite nervous by then but continued on anyway. I broke away from Grand Funk and headed up to the belay rings below the headwall. I made it to the first bolt, which still had the red webbing from my last visit. I made it about 10' or 15' past the bolt and slipped. My belayer was not paying attention and I fell a bit further than I should have and jacked my ankle on a small ledge. The two traumatic experiences exactly a week apart took a toll on my climbing for the past year.

Now, just over a year later I decided I wanted to toprope the crux section in the headwall. It was not easy either as there is not much gear up above the headwall. There is a lot of debris and vegetation on this route due to it being an area of tremendous run-off after rain. That probably had a lot to do with its difficulty but I can tell you now that this was more difficult than any other 5.10s I have climbed at Stone and I have climbed quite a few. None of the guidebooks show the climbing in the headwall as being particularly difficult but I beg to differ. I would want to clean it before I lead it. Be very cautious with the first pitch too as it is extremely runout. This is just not a safe route and there are plenty of other routes to choose from. Yes, that red webbing is still there. Well, what was red, it is now mostly black.

Added: 2013-12-19

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Stone Mountain State Park: South Face

Taken for Granite Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Beautiful Day

We were looking for a decent moderate climb that we had not already been on a couple dozen times and ended up here. This is a nice climb although it wanders around quite a bit. The first and second pitches are where the excitement is at. This time around, rather than climb the dull third pitch, I made a long traverse over to PF Flyers. After playing around there for awhile, I traversed over to Grand Funk and rapped down from there.

Added: 2013-12-19

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Stone Mountain State Park: South Face - Access Routes to Tree Ledge

U Slot popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-11-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Casual Climb

I just wanted to introduce a friend's son to climbing at Stone and we climbed this first. I chose the unnamed line to the left of U-Slot and climbed straight up through the v- notch in the overlap. He climbed without any difficulty other than being a little short for the move up through the notch. Nice to be back at Stone.

Added: 2013-12-01

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Stone Mountain State Park: South Face - Access Routes to Tree Ledge

Block Route popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-11-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Same As Usual

Nothing to really say. I brought along a friend's son for his first time at Stone and started him on the easy stuff. Even in approach shoes, this is a very easy climb. Nice to be back though.

Added: 2013-12-01

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Western: Looking Glass Rock: South Face

Good Intentions popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-10-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Final Route of the Day

I had just fallen on Left Up so I climbed with a little more caution than I normally would. The pro was decent and the climbing fairly easy. I just took the path that looked like it had the most wear and chalk residue. It was a decent end to the day. We used the rap rings above Left Up to get to the ground.

Added: 2013-12-01

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Western: Looking Glass Rock: South Face

Left Up popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-10-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Humbled

I love slab climbing so I assumed that I would have no difficulties with the slick start, especially since it is a 5.7. I was proven wrong. I slipped in the low crux section and fell, my first on a low grade route. Talk about a humbling experience. Luckily, I was able to place a nut down low. It didn't look like a good placement but it held and I weigh about 230 lbs. I had my partner finish lowering me to the ground so I could shake it off and start over. I was a little more aggressive this time and made it through the crux with no issues but I was now a little nervous. The rest of the route went with ease and was easily protected but I did proceed much more carefully. I don't know that I would recommend leading this route after seeing how dangerous it can be. Just be generous with the pro initially. There is a set of rap rings at the top of the route.

Added: 2013-12-01

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Western: Looking Glass Rock: South Face

Bloody Crack popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-10-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun Multi-Pitch

This was our third route of the day. I lead both pitches. The start is quite interesting due to heavy polish from many years of use. It took me a few minutes to get the moves figured out. Mostly because I placed a cam in a hand jam that that was needed. Once I removed the cam, it all came together. It is a little tough for the grade. The first half of the second pitch was fairly fun too. I just followed the most difficult rock up to the trees. We then moved back down and around towards Gemini Crack. We only had a 70M rope so we chose the lowest pine tree for a rappel as none of the rings in this area are low enough for a 70. The tree already had bail gear attached to it. We were able to get down to the ledge above Left Up and use the set of rings there to get to the ground. Not the greatest route in the world but it is worth climbing at least once.

Added: 2013-12-01

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Western: Looking Glass Rock: South Face

Short Man's Sorrow popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-10-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Second South Face Climb

I don't generally second but my climbing partner wanted to lead something and decided on this route. This is a good warm-up for this section of the mountain. It is fairly self explanatory as you can see the clean rock the line follows. Well protected with no diffiult moves.

Added: 2013-12-01

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Western: Looking Glass Rock: South Face

Lichen or Not popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-10-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars First Climb on South Face

There were several parties climbing the routes we came to climb so we decided to give this a try since it was our first time to this area of the mountain. It was ok for what it is but a little boring. I guess it would be a good beginner route. If you have limited time and want the most bang for your buck, move on.

Added: 2013-12-01

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