johnnyb336's Logbook (121 ascents)

After climbing Jim Dandy, we finished the evening on My Route. I would have to say it was much better in the dark. I let my partner lead the first pitch and I lead the second and third pitches. I combined both upper pitches into a single pitch. With proper gear placement, the drag is not that bad. The view was amazing, all I could see were the lights. I would highly recommend strapping on a headlight and giving it a try in the dark.

We had been wanting to climb in the dark for awhile and decided to pick a couple of easy routes to the top. I lead the first and third pitches while my partner lead the second pitch. It was just as easy in the dark as it is in the daylight. The temperature was ideal and it felt more like a scramble than an actual climb.

Not the best route but it is something different. I would recommend using The Climber's Guide to NC rather than Selected Climbs for beta. The map in Selected Climbs is not very accurate.

You will nead to start at the second pitch belay of Dream Waves and there are multiple ways to complete the first pitch. To make it more interesting, you can climb Peer Pressure first. From the second pitch belay, follow the dike up to the first bolt, where it enters dark rock. At the first bolt, move off of the dike head straight up the mountain towards another bolt. You should be on the right edge of the dark rock the entire time. Watch for a set of double rings to the left. Traverse left across mossy rock to the belay rings. The second pitch has no protection but is not that difficult. Just head up and to the left. The belay will be above Fantastic and is shared by several routes in this area. I just followed the most interesting looking path.

Even though the climbing is quite easy, I just really enjoy this route. It is a very casual climb with excellent views. The pro is really good too. I just clip the bolts and don't bother with anything additional. The only spot that is even remotely difficult, if that, is just above the first belay. I stay to the left and climb over the mini roof. We climbed later in the day while the rock was shaded and cool and the black flies were out in full force. I think it would have been better to endure the heat from the sun than those little blood suckers. Hopefully, they will be gone soon.

I have climbed this route a half-dozen times or so and it is fun for what it is but I really only climb it on the behalf of others. This was my second's first ever multi-pitch climb and he ended up enjoying it once it was over with. I do like the exposure on the second pitch and I don't bother with additional pro as the bolts are more than adequate. If you do not pay attention on the second pitch, it is very easy to end up at the belay for Skip To My Lou. The third pitch is more of a walk than a climb but it is necessary to get to the tree ledge.

It was a rather warm day but the climbing was great. The first pitch can be a little tricky this time of year. Even though the section up to the first bolt can look very easy, it becomes very slick when hot. It can be protected with micro cams and small nuts. While I did not have any difficulties, I did have to rely more on the handholds and be careful of where I placed my feet. After that, it was smooth sailing. I lead the full route and took my time, enjoying the beautiful day.

This was my preferred route to the tree ledge at one time and I have climbed it on numerous occasions, just not recently until today. There is a thin section of crack between the two trees but nothing really difficult. I was able to use one nut, a #1 C3, and a .3 C4 in the thin section, all of which were solid placements. I always reach up and grab the arete above while working the thin crack. There are also plenty of holds on the face. I did sling both of the trees for pro but did not touch them with my hands or feet otherwise. There is nothing wrong with this route other than the fact that it is a little stiffer than many other Stone Mountain routes of equal grade. It is an excellent practice route for those wanting to lead entirely on trad gear, especially smaller gear.

The heat is beginning to make the climbing a little more difficult, which I personally enjoy. I had also climbed the first pitch earlier in the week with another group but my second wasn't ready for it and bailed. I can't justify claiming an ascent from one pitch. Today, I lead the full route. We use a 70M rope, so I combined the second and third pitches into a single pitch.

Again, I took the line to the the ledge that is located between the Block Route and the true line for U-Slot. I just aim for the v shaped notch in the overlap and blast through it. There is a good spot to place a cam about halfway up and I usually place another cam or two before making the move up through the v-notch but there isn't really anything else for pro. I would recommend going this way for those tired of the regular lines to the left and right.

I had a newcomer with me today and he wanted something a little better than the usual beginner routes so I chose this one. It was a little hot but the traction was good and a nice breeze kept it bearable. As usual for this time of year, we had the rock to ourselves.