lena_chita's Logbook (741 ascents)

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Squirrely Adventure Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10a
Safety Rating	G

Onsight ascent by: lena_chita on 2013-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

If it was possible to give negative stars...

... this route would get it. At least, get someone else to hang the draws, if you are short. Better yet, don't climb it at all.

Added: 2013-05-05

Waco not Hueco Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11c
Safety Rating	G

Hang Dog ascent by: lena_chita on 2013-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

It may have a perfect hueco...

... but you would be completely waco to get on this climb, if you are 5 feet tall. Out of 5 bolts, 3 would be impossible to hang (the first one is stick-clipped, so it doesn't count). The only way to pull the crux is to grab a loose moving rock-- and then hand-foot-match it, for good measure. Make sure you push the rock IN, before hand-foot-matching. Awesome! (NOT!)

Added: 2013-05-05

Low Brow Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12a
Safety Rating	G

Hang Dog ascent by: lena_chita on 2013-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

.

5.10 climbing to 3 moves that involve one impossible sideways reach, and more 5.10 climbing to finish. The sideways fall was not very pleasant.

Added: 2013-05-05

Resurrection Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12c
Safety Rating	G

Hang Dog ascent by: lena_chita on 2013-04-27 (View Climbing Log)

One try

This one will be tough for me. Everyone talks about "hard boulder problem" at the start, but it just didn't seem to let up after the supposed "end" of the boulder problem. Every single section seems to have a stretchy move.

Still, I am glad i tried it.

Added: 2013-04-29

Ben Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G

Red Point ascent by: lena_chita on 2013-04-21 (View Climbing Log)

Updated to 5.11a on redriverclimbing.com

and I think that 11a is fair, for the moves at the top.

Added: 2013-04-22

Primus Noctum Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12a
Safety Rating	G

Hang Dog ascent by: lena_chita on 2013-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

Harder if you are short

Tried this route a couple of years ago, and couldn't do the moves at the top. This time around,figured out the short-person beta. It is possible, just not comfortable!

Added: 2013-04-22

Naked Lunch Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11d
Safety Rating	G

Red Point ascent by: lena_chita on 2013-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

Reach helps...

...and if you don't have one, you better get strong on hangboard crimps. :)

Added: 2013-04-22

Little Teapot Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11d
Safety Rating	G

Red Point ascent by: lena_chita on 2013-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

"short and stout"--2nd go.

Well, no, not really stout. If you are short, you will have to do a little jump to a good crimp. And then a little jump to a good hold. And then a little pop to the anchor-clipping jug.... But otherwise, it seems like a gimme 12a. more like a little boulder problem. the "12a" part is barely 20 ft long.

Added: 2013-04-15

Squatter Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11d
Safety Rating	G

Flash ascent by: lena_chita on 2013-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

Interesting

Bouldery (campusing?) start, to easy but chossy climbing in the middle. The top section is where all the business is, and the rock quality is much better. Too bad it is not the same throughout, but the top section makes it definitely worth-while.

Added: 2013-04-01

Mooch Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11b
Safety Rating	G

Flash ascent by: lena_chita on 2013-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

Some sections of crumbly rock

My partner pulled off a shoe-box-sized piece of rock in the middle. He started pulling on the undercling, noticed that it was not solid, and called for a take. He expected to take out a fist-sized chunk of rock, but when he pulled on it, a much larger section came off.

Hopefully it will clean up nicely.

Added: 2013-04-01

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