luiscis's Logbook (12 ascents)

Una gran aventura en Acopan...

This place is awesome!!!

Yeah, the rock may be a bit flaky and bolts are far apart... but generally is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. It is really a great line.

There are bolted anchors on every pitch and most bolts in the route are new. Notice: don't pull too hard out on the flakes, they usually expand and you may break them if you pull in the wrong direction... but if you play attention (and you want to play attention with this kind of run outs!), they are perfectly fine.

The first pitch is kind of the hardest one for your head, and maybe the most sustained one. If you survive this one, the rest will feel more smooth, with the exception of a few crux moves here and there.
I did not find the line too hard to follow; bolts are indeed a bit hard to find sometimes but once you see one, the next one is usually in sight, and the line turns out clear. The last pitch is not obvious though. It could be done in many different ways. Just find the easiest way up and don't expect to place any gear other than slinging some chicken-heads.

From the top, there is a rap line (5 raps) down over Table for Two that is save and goes straight down.

Just GREAT! it worth combining with Warm and Free. The finger crack is fenomenal, and the roof move just make it a classic.

Excellent rock and fun climbing. The whole thing is just really a classic backcountry line. Leave you whishing for a few more pitches like that.

The quality of the rock does not seem very good, but is actually not bad when you get on it.

Is not the prettiest line, but is fun as hell!!! a sketchy move on small holds on the crux, but must of it is long moves on jugs. The very end section is great, but watch out with a thorny agave plant right on your way for good holds. You either use the crimper or fight with it, and believe me, is not an easy fight!

This is such a great climb, sustained and fun. I would say no gear is really needed. And 16 to 18 draws will do.

Every pitch have something for you, all the way to the top.

It is pretty fan indeed. Long and sustained with a bit of everything. The rock is also quite clean for this area.

Highly recomended

This is pretty hard for its grade, but what do you expect of an offwith??? this is not like climbing in the gym. Here you will experience what is it to climb with every inch of your body.

First pitch is easy chimney with an awesome limestone roof that looks scary at the beginning, but there are good holds and is actually a super fun 5.7-8 section.
The second one has a little tough and steep hand crack section right above the anchors and a quite intimidating offwith little section in the top. That higher part will need a #5 Camalot to protect, or use nuts in the small cracks on the right side.
The third has an incredible traverse, exposed and fun!, and some more offwith, you should start feeling comfortable in this crack width by this point :-)
The fourth pitch (5.9+) is hard indeed. Chimney and guess what? more offwidth. Protection is pretty good, a #4 Camalot is nice for the last move, but there is a bolt close, so is not really mandatory if you have the balls to do the crux move 10 feet above it.
Then you reach the first summit and you SHOULD make the jump-climb across the chimney to reach the other summit. This just make it the nicest last pitch I've ever done. Then you have to jump back (really, jump!) or down-climb, which I did for the sake of my bad knees.

Phenomenal climb in on the most amazing scenarios I've done. This is just gorgeous, and I warranty it will make you smile for days afterwards!!!

Definitely a MUST-CLIMB in Arizona...

Love this place! there are a lot of good pitches on not-too-bad rock. The second pitch takes some juice, is good the hard section is not long and protects very well.

Gorgeous and bold in an incredible location. This climb is a
must do, at the level to most of Yosemite's best classics... I'm
looking forward to come back to this route as soon as I can.

First pitch is weird, but it can be protected very well with some
micro-cams and a large camalot. For the second pitch bring large
stuff, BD #3, #3.5 and #4 will do perfectly, we had only one of each
but two #4s and maybe a #5 can be highly appreciated. This is a very
physical pitch that will give you a good battle. The third pitch is
one of the best I've ever done... is just superb. Is not really too
hard, and just PERFECT!!! is a finger size crack, with a delicate
face traverse at the very end which give this pitch its grade. Is
very well protected, but be aware in that last move. If you fall
there and your last piece is too far to the right you may hit the
wall on the right side of the crack. Place a piece in the roof as
far to the left as you can before committing the traverse move. It
is just FUN as hell!!! Fourth has some delicate moves, you will
probably have to blind-place a cam on the little crack to the left,
the holds are far on the right. There is a good spot for a yellow
Metolius, with that on place, just go for it. It takes like three
moves to get to good holds and easy climbing. The rest is just lots
of fun. Bring full rack for this pitch. The last one is simple, easy
wide crack to a face climb. A 5.11 move protected by a new bolt,
then another bolt, and easy run-out up to the top.

Bolted anchors after 1st, 3rd, and top. There are anchors in the
middle of 4th pitch, right under the Friendly Flake, for descent.
You get there from the top, then a short rap to top of 3th and from
there you can make it to the ground with 60mt ropes.

Enjoy!!!