martelc's Logbook (4 ascents)

I had built this climb up to be much bigger than I should have. It is spicy, no doubt, through The Sword and it's exhausting, but it's not as scary as I had imagined.

I lead the Split Pillar clean (with run-out near the wide top), then followed my partner up The Sword (and the bolt ladder), then lead Perry's Layback (not clean; it sapped some strength), then followed the 5.9 traverse which was rather run-out, then lead The Sting In The Tail (also not clean, but it was really enjoyable).

Swapped leads, with my partner leading up the P4 arete and the burly P8 to the magical tree. We walked off of Bellygood Ledge.

P2 is always fun.
P3 was spicy with thin moves on less than stellar gear.
P7 had deck-potential, but a short crux.

P3 (5.10a Angel Crack) was my favourite pitch. P8 (5.10a) had some awkward moves that I nearly fell off of. P10 (Acrophobes Traverse) were quite exposed...obviously. P13 (5.10a steep crack) is the toughest pitch, IMHO - exposed with a difficult start while exhausted. P14 (5.8 Chimney) was quite exposed, stepping across an abyss.

Exhausting, long 5.10d pitch. Burly finish. One of my favourite climbs this summer (certainly the best on The Squaw).