peas's Logbook (248 ascents)

with yetanotherdave. left the ground at 8:45 and topped out at 5:30. I got the upper 4 pitches. This climb has been a measuring stick for my aid climbing.

Attempt 1: 1 pitch completed. prussiks used for ascending and hauling. My partner slept upright in a lawn chair. I was crushed widthwise and lengthwise in a camp cot. Bailed the next morning.

Attempt 2: 5 pitches completed. Tried to do it in a day. It was dark when I started the 6th pitch. Our crappy topo had the bolts blurred out so I got way off route and we decided to rap. Partner had a mini epic when he used his boot lace for a prussik and had to cut it off. Back in the parking lot at 2am. We were supposed to meet a friend for beers in Squamish that night. He met us in the parking lot after worrying a lot.

Attempt 3: Success! No hitches. Everything according to plan.

With Karl Manzer. I got pitches 1 and 3. The low bolt on p1 was chopped, so the start was extra exciting. This is the first time I've done pitch 3 and it was a lot easier than it looked, but Karl thought otherwise.

With Karl Manzer. I got pitches 1 and 3. The roof on pitch one was a little wet and quite tough. The gear isn't great either.

With yetanotherdave. I got pitches 1 and 2. Hand placed one pecker behind a dead head. Offset aliens useful, but not necessary. Metolius scalloped nuts nice.

With Dave Clendenan. Dave got first pitch, I got second. After coming down from Wrist Twister, we were in our approach shoes.

with yetanotherdave. We linked p1 and p2 with a bit of simulclimbing (my pitch). I got pitch 4 as well, then Dave did the rest. Nice climb.

with Mark Halverson. Mark got pitch 1 and the easy last bit. I got pitch 2. Cool climb.

Mark got p1 and p2. I got the traverse and the first corner pitch. We swapped leads from there. A little wet, but not too bad.

I don't think I used a #3 camalot, contrary to my advice in the description. Foot traversed the top bit for the first time and it's way less strenuous that way. A little less secure though.

Mark lead it. I seconded it.