salamanizer's Logbook (537 ascents)

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Skin and Bones Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

Thin

Thinner than it looked. The feet almost don't exist and the fingers are really tight for most of the way. There is no way in any universe this thing is 5.10d. Solid 5.11b/c. The wide section above takes a #4 and is a little harder than it looks.

Added: 2012-09-05

risky business Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

Fun

Great fist jamming to a fun and steep traverse and lieback up a gong flake.

Added: 2012-09-05

perfection Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

Ouch

Off fingers tweak fest. Hurt my knuckles and toes. Full of fur. Felt it was at least .11c given the full sun conditions and moss lining of the crack.

Added: 2012-09-05

Air Force recruiter Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11b
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

dirty

Definately at least 5.11b. Short but sweet.

Added: 2012-09-05

Karakorum highway first two pitches Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

Awesome

Felt the climbing quality was world class. Can't wait to finish the route to the top. Adds another stellar 7 pitches to Silk Road making an already super classic a world class route of 16 pitches if you link everything you can. This whole route would be twice as long as Astroman and a little harder IMO. I feel the offwidth (read awkward width) of this first pitch rated .10a is probably more like 5.10+

Added: 2012-09-05

Hotline Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.12c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

Awesome

Cruised up to the traverse. Felt the off hands before the traverse was solid 5.12a/b for yosemite standards. The face traverse however was at least 5.12c. Had no power left and just aided it. The rest was no problem accept for the 5.10d flare at the top. Should have done the 5.11d, it would have been way easier.

Added: 2012-09-05

Energy Crisis Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11d
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

thin

The first three quarters of this route is easy to mid 5.10 but the crux was a sequential but short and powerful few moves to better jambs. The last few moves keeps it on you.

Added: 2012-09-05

Cream Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

Levetate

Thought this was more like 5.10b. Not trying to sandbag but I was able to get a knee in, lock a high foot or get a good edge or stance pretty much the whole way where I could rest with no hands. I used levetation technique for a good length of the route and found there to be no real distinct crux. I suppose if you tried to arm bar the whole thing it would feel 5.11. O.K. maybe 5.10c tops. Stepping Out, Twilight Zone, Ahab, Generator Crack are all harder than this one.

Added: 2012-09-05

Blind Faith Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.11d
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

Hot

Climbed this route when it was way too hot. First pitch felt way greasy with hands dripping sweat. Offwidhts are really soft for the grades.

Added: 2012-09-05

Kaukulater Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2012-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

Hot

Did this thing when it was like 95 degreese in the shade. Should have waited for cooler temps to attempt the onsight. Greased a bit on the first few moves but got them without falling. Cruised to the offwidth (note to self, 2 #2's and 3's would be nice) but didn't have gear for the offwidth. Way to hot to give a shit about the onsight so lowered, grabbed a #5 and climbed the route again with no problems. The overhanging part at the top was fun. Second pitch looked interesting, wonder why that dosn't get climbed???

Added: 2012-09-05

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