scarpodog's Logbook (31 ascents)

another great line on this side of the cliff, good protection most of the way up, the line go straight all the way to the top, but you gotta run out the last 2 mts, the holds are good, but it is overhang an you feel lots of exposure , hooo maann! that section is soooo relaxing.

The last 12, 13 ft of the line is an overhanging finger to hand crack problem, if you dont have the endurance to protect it, you gotta to run out till the end, if you dont make it espect big air.
sweeeeet!

you can go left or right at the end after the cave , I went left, its a very nice run out traverse with some exposure before you gain a little ledge were you can get a pice right before the the crux on the moves to finish the line. I did it on winter boots NICE!

Start at 206m go up to a prominent roof crack doubles of the medium size cams or nuts will do the job, good luck at the roof!

one of my first winter ascents

onsighted this one on my Dickies steel toe safety boots on winter, a very nice squeeze chimney action

a bit hard to find pro at the beginning, there are some cracks, but they are flare, I used a #0 BD C3 at 11 or 12 ft from the ground on a small thin crack but the little cam got deep inside, it looked bomber to me the holds are good and solid and is easy to gain the ledge to an open book where Tricams are very useful, from the ledge you can protect the the crux with a red DMM offset nut on a V notch right at the end of the open book, crank the crux to another little ledge with a finger to hand size crack system that takes you to the top

protection is good but is hard to see it from the ground, you can avoid the bolts and the pitons with BD C3s , some small nuts and big balls. One of the most pleasant, sustained 5.9 routes on Milton.

Crux mostly at the beginning. I managed to put a metolius TCU #1 at 10 ft from the ground and found a very narrow spot for a .3 BD cam just 1ft higher at the begin of the crux, i was fighting to unlock the moves but it was so polished that my hand just slipped and I fell down, the BD failed but my belayer was paying attention so he took rope the most he can and after having leaned his self back the metolius caught me just a few inches from the ground, (Nice catch Pietro!) after the fall on the next attempt found the trick, past the crux and the rest was just plain fun! I still remember the scary block a the end it looks like it s gonna be detached at any moment, and is huge.

onsight winter ascent, on winter boots and numb fingers, what a great time