slavetogravity's Logbook (16 ascents)

Wow, what a great route! Neil let me have a go on the first free ascent. We agree that the grade is closer to 5.10d.

very bouldery off the deck. You're first pice is all or nothing and a ways off base. Good luck.

Didn't know a thing about this route beyond looking at from the base. Thought it would be a hike after the last bolt. Boy was I wrong, that traverse keeps your attention.

My best onsight EVER!

All I can say is this is the hardest 5.10d around. It took me no less then 5 years, and countless attempts before I could finally red point this climb

It goes like this. The approach to the base is not too far, give your self 3 hours and you'll be fine.
Once at the base of the south ridge you'll find no shortage of places to pitch your tent. There's also a $#!& house up there to make life a little more livable.
The first pitch is 5.8 and is arguably the crux. There are a few variations to the first pitch up the most obvious is the one that ascends the right leaning chimney about 50m up from the toe of the south ridge. To find the start, climb up the talus aprox. 50m from the ridge toe, and find the chimney with all the ratty bail slings in it. At 25m you'll find a fixed station. You could belay from this station. If you're climbing with a 60m rope you're better off linking the first two pitches to reach the chock stone at the top of the chimney.
You'll know you're on rout at this point cause' the chock stone has about 500 bail slings around it. Now you're on the ridge proper.
Pitch 2. follows in continuous cracks on the ridge, past a fixed pin, taking you to a tree belay.
Pitch 3. Step left from the tree and climb a lest leaning lay back crack, that takes you to top of a huge ledge.
Pitch 4. You are now on the upper head wall. Find the path of lest resistance up the upper head wall for for a rope length ending at a God awful hanging belay.
Pitch 5. Follow the in continuous cracks up the head wall for another pitch until you're at the base of the big open book corner.
Pitch 6. Climb the corner, until you reach the underside of the roof. Clip a long runner on the no.11 black diamond stopper I got stuck there two years ago, and step out LEFT. Make two 5.9ish moves and pull the roof. (I recommend saving a no.2 Camelot for the belay)
Pitch 7-8-9. Climb or simil-climb the next few easy fifth class pitches until you reach the summit.
Ya', you've just climbed Gimli.
Decent. Hike down the east ridge, until you can glicade the south slopes back to camp.