speddy's Logbook (1 ascent)

Al Bartlett and I did the third ascent, we thought we were going to do the second but Bard let us know he had just done the second. It had been about 3 years since it was put up by Charlie Porter. He did it during a Spring snowstorm with a partner who had never done a big wall. On my way out of the Valley for the first time I saw him, 10 days into the climb. Robbins had started the route and given up. We figured he would either make it or die. At the time a rescue had never been attempted or made on the N American Wall. When Al & I did the route we figured we had to make it. We figured we would have a hell of a time trying to get down if we didn't. Since Charlie did not talk much about the many wall climbs he did, we were not sure how hard it was. It was reported to be A4+ or A5. There weren't that many people climbing that wall at the time. I think we were the only ones on the wall during the whole climb. Not too sure of the year. It was the last big climb I did before I went in the Service. Thought you might like to know how it was back then.