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stevecurtis's Logbook (371 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Calaveras Dome: Calaveras Dome

Medicine Man Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.13a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun new

Start in any of about 10 places. The best is probably the clean 5.9 crack that starts off a pillar with thin fingers (10B). At the anchor, follow bolts straight up a slab. The 11 A rating is a Calaveras rating. Above the slab, a good ledge with a marginal anchor. Head left and through tiered roof. Follow the corner to a bad anchor and tree, and then up the steep anchor past gear and two bolts. The next anchor is just OK. After this, AO or 5.13 up the face. Beyond is another 5.11 face with OK anchor and OK bolts. The bolted variation on pitch 3 has bad bolts.

Added: 2014-04-16

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Calaveras Dome: Calaveras Dome

Beacons to Mars Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Finally did this thing, and took the fall you wonder about new

I could see the rubber pealing off my shoes as I slid. Made a bone head move on the second pitch crux. About 15 ft above the bolt.
First and second pitches sport some really huge fall potential. Probably safe falls too--at least the one I took. There isn't a knob higher than about 1/4 inch to hit. Pitch 3 has a few tough sections where you would not walk away from a fall. Beyond pitch 4, the climbing eases SLIGHTLY, but is still engaging to the very, very end. Really fun climbing. Bring a single rack to 2 inches, we used one nut on pitch 8.

OH YEA, alert. There is loose rock on the 4th pitch, and Chad says a crack holding about 100 TONS OF STONE HAS WIDENED!!

Added: 2014-04-14

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Diego County: El Cajon Mountain: The Wedge (El Cap) Center-Headwall

Diamond of San Diego Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars tried the first pitch

Rope solo. No good between first and second bolt for the rope soloist. I came down. A regular belay should be ok, but quite a bit harder than 11 A in this place.

Added: 2014-01-09

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Diego County: El Cajon Mountain: The Wedge (El Cap) Center-Headwall

Commander Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars rope solo second third and fourth

The crux on the second pitch is a really painful boulder problem. Third pitch nice, fourth too.

Added: 2014-01-09

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Diego County: El Cajon Mountain: The Wedge (El Cap) Center-Headwall

Snaggle Puss Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-01-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars rope solo

Felt hard for 11 c, then again, I've got a few cracked ribs.

Added: 2014-01-09

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Sugarloaf: West Face

Hyperspace Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars I thought the first 10 feet was hardest.

The thin flake is better than it looks from the ground. Take a few yellow aliens.

Added: 2013-12-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Phantom Spires: Lower Spire

Jack Corner Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Easy to get down with a 60

A nice corner.

Added: 2013-12-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Phantom Spires: Lower Spire

The Siren Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A nice one.

There is a good slot for a nut for the belay. Insecure climbing for the first bolt--a small cam might help. Afterward, a hard move between first and second bolt. A yellow alien is handy above this. Third bolt does not inspire confidence. Mid to hard 11 between third and fourth bolt. More hard 10 to first anchor. Crux move over roof requires an odd body tension move--probably significantly harder than grade. Above are two bolts and a runout. Right is thin and reachy 5.11, left is very thin 10 + according to my partner.

Added: 2013-12-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Phantom Spires: Lower Spire

Last Lock-up Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars replace these bolts

The crux is at the roof. above, there is a decent green alien. I was debating on how useless these bolts were.

Added: 2013-12-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Phantom Spires: Lower Spire

five tendons Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good route

A green alien protects the first clip. The crux follows--not terribly hard, but hard to figure. Sustained to ledge and then another tough section. Easy but steep runout to top.

Added: 2013-12-05

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