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stevecurtis's Logbook (374 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Central Utah: Notch Peak: Upper North Face

Book of Saturdays Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-07-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars a great adventure

The rock on this is considerably worse than western hardman. Also, most pitches should have an R rating. In particular--the end of pitch 6. Pitch 8 had unbelievably loose rock in the correct line. My partner took about 100lbs off here. Also, the 10b pitch high (before the 10aR pitch) had a hard spot above a ledge.
The 11th pitch, where everyone gets lost? We found the correct line between the two major nasty looking features.

Summary. A fun 17 hour day car to car. My partner cleaned about a ton of rock. Our combined age--127
Single set of cams probably enough. We used one nut.
At the head of the approach gully, the last 40 ft is loose and steep. We rapped and left a sling on a bush on the way out. Also, once above the gully, be sure to traverse 15 minutes right on slabs and scree slope before heading up the cliff band--the spot is pretty obvious when you get there. Heading back left on the upper terrace (the same one Fin de Monde starts from), the start of the route is several hundred yards. If you go too far you'll find the rap anchors for the lower cliff band. The climb's start is about 100 yards right of these.
Finally, we rappelled in high winds with a 6 mm tag line and our lead line. Throwing ropes down was not an option.

Added: 2014-07-30

Routes: North America: United States: California: Northern California: Trinity Aretes: Visions Wall

Gooseberry Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars sustained with good holds

except at crux. Thin and sequential.

Added: 2014-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: California: Northern California: Trinity Aretes: Visions Wall

Indian Summer Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route rope solo

Thin Crux at about bolt 4, A few bolts later a ledge with a #2 camalot--questionable. Then somewhat hard climbing to the next bolt. At the top where there are no more bolts on line, one can reach left and clip a bolt on the arete--about 15 feet out on large holds, overhanging.

Added: 2014-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Calaveras Dome: Calaveras Dome

Medicine Man Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.13a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

Start in any of about 10 places. The best is probably the clean 5.9 crack that starts off a pillar with thin fingers (10B). At the anchor, follow bolts straight up a slab. The 11 A rating is a Calaveras rating. Above the slab, a good ledge with a marginal anchor. Head left and through tiered roof. Follow the corner to a bad anchor and tree, and then up the steep anchor past gear and two bolts. The next anchor is just OK. After this, AO or 5.13 up the face. Beyond is another 5.11 face with OK anchor and OK bolts. The bolted variation on pitch 3 has bad bolts.

Added: 2014-04-16

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Calaveras Dome: Calaveras Dome

Beacons to Mars Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Finally did this thing, and took the fall you wonder about

I could see the rubber pealing off my shoes as I slid. Made a bone head move on the second pitch crux. About 15 ft above the bolt.
First and second pitches sport some really huge fall potential. Probably safe falls too--at least the one I took. There isn't a knob higher than about 1/4 inch to hit. Pitch 3 has a few tough sections where you would not walk away from a fall. Beyond pitch 4, the climbing eases SLIGHTLY, but is still engaging to the very, very end. Really fun climbing. Bring a single rack to 2 inches, we used one nut on pitch 8.

OH YEA, alert. There is loose rock on the 4th pitch, and Chad says a crack holding about 100 TONS OF STONE HAS WIDENED!!

Added: 2014-04-14

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Diego County: El Cajon Mountain: The Wedge (El Cap) Center-Headwall

Diamond of San Diego Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars tried the first pitch

Rope solo. No good between first and second bolt for the rope soloist. I came down. A regular belay should be ok, but quite a bit harder than 11 A in this place.

Added: 2014-01-09

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Diego County: El Cajon Mountain: The Wedge (El Cap) Center-Headwall

Commander Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars rope solo second third and fourth

The crux on the second pitch is a really painful boulder problem. Third pitch nice, fourth too.

Added: 2014-01-09

Routes: North America: United States: California: San Diego County: El Cajon Mountain: The Wedge (El Cap) Center-Headwall

Snaggle Puss Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-01-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars rope solo

Felt hard for 11 c, then again, I've got a few cracked ribs.

Added: 2014-01-09

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Sugarloaf: West Face

Hyperspace Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars I thought the first 10 feet was hardest.

The thin flake is better than it looks from the ground. Take a few yellow aliens.

Added: 2013-12-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Phantom Spires: Lower Spire

Jack Corner Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Easy to get down with a 60

A nice corner.

Added: 2013-12-05

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