stevecurtis's Logbook (341 ascents)

Heading up the obvious wash, about a 45 minute hike from the canyon entrance, one first comes to appetite for destruction. Head down canyon about 200 yards for western hardman.

The route is great. Low commitment, safe climbing harder than 5.8. easy to rappell, not too much loose rock. The crack system pitches about 6-8 is especially good.

One of the classics. some reasonably hard OW and chimney. bring a #5

Well, I made it to the pod before I started dogging. I couldn't rest in there, but did manage to make a big tomato on my stomach. No feet fists in a horizontal flare. Keep your # 4s for past the pod, and save a # 2 for the end.

I've wandered twice to find the start. Contrary to the guide book, the start is not 100 ft uphill from "The Willies". It is more like 300ft. Go past the bolt/link and keep going until you find the obvious feature--the flake in the big chimney. Above looks vegitated with poor, and broken climbing. It is. The first belay is two bolts and a fair bit to the left, partly hidden by trees. The second pitch heads up fourth class ramps through trees to some easily seen bolts. Unfortunately, the first clip requires insecure 5.9 (R), and the territory between bolts is more like 5.10 PG/R. go 200 feet to the second tree with slings. Then head 200 ft right. The third pitch is memorable and excellent. Be prepared to use a number of neglected techniques. Pitches 4 and 5 are OK easy low angle to "sherwood forest"-a steep slab. The first headwall pitch is the crux. Really sustained, but no real hard moves. Afterwards, this headwall becomes less steep, less hard, but a little runout in sections. Consistently good climbing, with, for me, need of an occasional cam. There are a few places where one can fall on his partner, but otherwise, the falls are clean.
A single set of cams to red camalot was good. Take small ones for pitch 3.

All in all, a really good route. We rapped with a 70 meter

a Fun route. I took a factor two fall on the second pitch, then decided to aid this spot-8 ft somewhere 12 A to 12 C

Good pro, overhanging rock, and a moderate grade. a good rope solo

OK route. A committing move on choss at about the 4th bolt.

Good route. Move left when it gets harder.

Crux bolt is loose. Back it up with a yellow alien

Bring a hand sized cam for the start. Run out