thecornyman's Logbook (68 ascents)

Best route I've been on yet. I lead all pitches and loved it.
P1 was a little heady for me but I think I was just settling in for a step up the grade and length I was about to lead.
P2 is the easiest pitch, little steep but easy to protect. I get a .5 purple cam stuck and my follower couldn't clean but I'm guessing it will get cleaned pretty quickly by someone experienced.
P3 Def more than 80 ft to the real belay and is a lot more difficult with a back pack (at least for me since I'm new to chimney climbing). Super topo says no protection but I had no problem. Bring some small nuts but they don't need to be micro.
P4 Crux pitch for me. Find the holds on the left before getting too far up. I chimney-ed up the first moves and then couldn't get to a stemming position and took my only fall on the route (luckily after clipping the piton). You can get 1 or 2 number 4 camelot in before the piton. The view at the top of this pitch is the most breathtaking picture I've ever seen.
P5 couple different variations here. I went straight up and when you get wrist deep in tree sap then traverse out right to some jugs you jump up on.
P6 Jug city but pretty vertical so I only ran it out 15 - 20 ft between pieces. Crazy bad rope drag.

Decent - so we finished as the sun was setting and then ended up going down the right of the ridge into the wrong valley. Probably finished the climb around 8pm then bushwacked till 3am. Down the right side of the ridge to some river? up the wrong ridge to a cliff? then across to true gully that leads back to the base of the climb. Then promptly lost the trail again and bushwacked back down to the boulder field and finally found the trail back to the road. Was almost sure we were going to sleep out there.

All worth it.

couple of cool moves in the first two sections of the route then the third gets dirty and poor rock quality and hard to protect. Also the super topo says 80 feet from the ground and is incorrect. We rapped over to the chimney and then rapped again off that tree.

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so many ways to climb this. my buddy chimney-ed his way up and did great i stemmed and jammed and took one fall.

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hard open hand moves

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I tried to lead the first pitch and backed off to follow as I'm a new crack climber. Both the first and second pitch are sustained and take fist and hand jams better than any route I've ever been on. For the third we did the squeeze/chimney and after sh1ting my pants we went up the 5.9 hand crack on the left side to the top. Do the chimney/squeeze, it was crazy and I'll never forget it.

tried to lie back on this and made it a lot harder than just jamming all the way up.