tyler_o_melvin's Logbook (23 ascents)

Just as fun the second time around. I think I followed a better line at the crux this time, and it felt pretty easy that way. Great view from the belay ledge!

The top of this climb would be even more fun if it wasn't quite so dirty. Highly featured low-angle ramp + lots of dirt and plants = rope management nightmare. May be better to flake your rope onto a flat dish.

A really killer climb! Starts at the end of the first pitch of Noobie. Crux is right at second and third bolts, passing over a 10-15 foot high shelf-like feature, including a really cool undercling! Easy and really fun climbing above to the first rap anchors. Forced to belay from here due to rope drag (would definitely recommend slings on first few bolts to avoid this). Route continues above through slightly harder climbing to final belay ledge on a large block above a dirt ledge, avoiding an uncomfortable belay on the slab below. Overall, route was well protected, especially at cruxes, but in my opinion deserves a PG13 rating due to bolt spacing at easier parts (I seem to recall spacing 20ft or so at some easy parts). Definitely safe though for leaders who are very comfortable leading in the 5.8 range. Crux felt more like 5.8 to me, similar to the majority of the easier climbing on Leonids, but most was in the 5.6-5.7 range. ****!

Neat, low angle ramp serves as an approach pitch to several other climbs. Interestingly, crux moves are unprotected at the start. An off-balance fall here could send both the climber and belayer off the belay ledge. Above this, climbing is *very* easy. Lots of dirt and some sandy areas of the ramp. Great first lead? I'm not so sure. Although the majority of the climbing is in the very low 5th class range (some may choose to keep their hiking boots on), bolt spacing above the first repel station is pretty huge, just the kind of thing that scares the shit out of new leaders. I would recommend Mission Gorge as a more suitable area for a first lead.

Great warm-up. Requires a little too much strength to be a 5.7, IMHO, especially for shorter people due to bad feet and big reach on the first few moves.

Perfect hands but not long enough to really get situated. Not as painful as everyone makes it out to be.

Fun movement, good edging. Not really a 5.10 if you have long arms as you can comfortably bypass a couple of intermediate crimps. I haven't seen any short people do this problem, but I suspect that it would require some killer crimping and possibly a more dynamic move for the top-out jug.

Cool mantel that takes a little bit of commitment. Don't let the bees get you!

Very cool climb heads up the lowest angle portion of the amphitheater. Good edges and a fun top out.

Smeary crux is at start. Easy climbing afterwards. Much easier in cool weather.