willywilderness's Logbook (3 ascents)

Another great route up Sheepshead! It was hard to determine which pitch contained the crux move. I thought the traverse move from the 2nd to 3rd bolt on pitch 1 was challenging. The second pitch had a couple of very thin friction moves about 2/3 of the way up. About 1/2 way up the 3rd pitch is a challenging short roof with sloper holds to get over the top. Take your pick about the crux. Great climb with great protection and views.

We thought this was one of the most consistent multi-pitch climbs at the 5.10 grade that either of us had ever done. It seemed that the majority of the moves on every pitch involved 5.10 climbing. I enjoyed this route more than Warpaint (climbed 3 times) due to the sustained nature of it. That being said this is a very safe climb due to the high number of bolts and high quality of rock. Getting to the 1st bolt involved intricate frictioning for about 18-20' before making the 1st clip. All belays are at fat 2-bolt Metolius anchors and involve comfortable ledges. The climbing is rated 5.10a but both of us felt there were several 5.10c moves on several pitches (well protected though). Easy to find as it is the first route about 50' right of the start of Absinthe of Mallett. The odd pitches tended to be about 50 meters in length, even pitches (2 & 4) about 30 meters long. At the top of the 5th pitch there are several options on how to start the 6th pitch. You could go left or right of the 5th pitch anchors. However, we opted to go straight up from the 5th pitch anchors. This entails some fun small roof problems at the start followed by more technical friction. We combined pitches 6 & 7 into one long pitch close to 60 meters in length (just shy of the summit). Definitely recommend a light rack. Ours included: 14 quick draws, 4 single slings, 2 double slings, set of nuts, set of BD Camalots to #1. What a wonderful route. Sustained friction climbing, fun small roof problems, solid rock, comfortable belays, safe! Can't wait to do it again!

Just a few extra comments for other future ascentionists:
The start of the climb is located about 30-40' left of the finger feature (slinged) that is about 100' up the face. We made the mistake of starting in the crack system directly below and to the right of the finger. This crack system becomes runout (5.10) and dangerous in the last 25' up to the finger. We realized our mistake and rappelled from the slings on the finger. Also, all belays on Ewephoria have double fat metolious bolt anchors at each belay. Pitch 1 is all trad except for final face moves to the belay. Last pitch (5) has two options for a finish. We finished the route using the last pitch (5.9) of "Too Tough to Die" instead of the 5.8 (bolted) chimney. Using the "Too Tough to Die" variation provided extremely enjoyable steep face, friction and exposure. I remember placing gear on only the first 2 pitches, the rest was clipping bolts. Our rack consisted of: 10 quickdraws, 5 single slings, 2 doube slings, set of nuts and single set of BD Camalots through #3. A single 60 meter rope was fine. Very enjoyable and pleasant route.