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crazyakclimber
Apr 17, 2005, 8:37 PM
Post #51 of 66
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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Hey dude! (HOSH) Lets go suck at aiding later today!
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karlbaba
Apr 18, 2005, 6:40 AM
Post #52 of 66
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
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Some folks think that because they're aid climbing, that somehow they can't use the crack with their fingers. If jamming and fingerlocking can help you balance higher in your aiders, go for it.
Sometimes you get as high as you can easily get in your aiders, and you see a nice bomber constriction in the crack just out of easy reach. Find the right nut and draw, put it at the front of your rack for easy access, and use the crack with your fingers to get higher in your aiders enough to slot the nut above your head.
For more advanced folks, get more comfortable with cam hooks. Practice on top-rope sometime. Maybe try to do a pitch on top rope as fast as possible, using as many cam hooks as possible. It will help open your eyes as to what's possible. In fact, top-roping aid climbing to practice your speed and high stepping is highly recommended. Most people don't practice enough before heading up a wall and then they're too gripped to expand their skills beyond survival mode.
peace
karl
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akclimber
Apr 21, 2005, 5:21 AM
Post #53 of 66
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Registered: Mar 17, 2004
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Ok. So I went out again today, life was much easier with the adjustable aiders. I was on an overhanging route, and I was still slow. Took me 2 1/2 hours to do a little less than half a pitch.
One problem I kept having: I used 4 etriers, they get FUBAR fast. They twist all up. Is there any way to remedy this problem (Maybe make them stiff like a modified tri-cam)?
We spotted a fixed RURP at a REALLY chossy sport route the other day. I started to free the route at one point, but all sorts of shit was coming down on the belayer... I soloed up to the RURP and rallied the rock around it, but made it come out. What are the ethics on popular aid climbs and fixed gear?
Side note: I used the Metolius adjustables, tried using a seperate biner like they suggested at first. Too much stuff in one place, so I changed it to a quicklink, works like a champ.
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anjalidas
May 3, 2005, 9:39 PM
Post #54 of 66
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Registered: Aug 31, 2004
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the previous post(s) is right about the shorter slings on the hooks, take all the reach you can get.
As for the pins, if you're planning on climbing walls in the lower 48 it might be better to get some cam hooks(just the two regular sizes are crucial) and wait and see exactly which pins are required(and which your partner(s) already have) for the route(s) you intend to climb. You can borrow some arrows and angles from the old time climbers and go see how they work(pretty basic). With aliens, offset aliens and the occasional cam hook placement many of the moderate walls in Yosemite/Zion are regularly being climbed with maybe only a handful or two of pin placements. That said I would definitely recommend getting some different size birdbeaks and learning all the incredible placements that they are useful for.
If you invest in aliens(valley wall climbers routinely take six sets((three regular three offset))) you'll be loving yourself on the free climbs as the aid.
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abisharat
May 3, 2005, 10:12 PM
Post #55 of 66
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Registered: Apr 12, 2005
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In reply to: One problem I kept having: I used 4 etriers, they get FUBAR fast. They twist all up. Is there any way to remedy this problem (Maybe make them stiff like a modified tri-cam)? |
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ricardol
May 3, 2005, 11:46 PM
Post #56 of 66
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
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6 sets of aliens?? -- abit overkill
.. 1 set of hybrids is enough -- if you have 2 you'll be happier.
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stymingersfink
May 4, 2005, 1:03 AM
Post #57 of 66
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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I'll vote for 5.
3 sets black - clear
2 sets hybrids
the hybrids are nearly always backcleaned. Nearly always. When I leave one behind, it's with a prayer that I don't have a two hybrid sequence farther up the line.
Sty
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epic_ed
May 4, 2005, 1:22 AM
Post #58 of 66
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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Hence, three set of Hybrids. It makes a man (or woman) very happy, I tell ya...
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avalon420
May 4, 2005, 2:23 AM
Post #59 of 66
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Registered: Mar 1, 2005
Posts: 281
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MASTER THE TOP STEP, use a boswain chair if your harness is un comfy, get doubles(if u dont already) of your most used pieces (mid size cam hook, sky hook, other rout specific toys,etc) and keep them on the aiders always. And most importantly, as someone metioned earlier, do what works best for you( once u figure out what that is)
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glockaroo
May 4, 2005, 5:40 PM
Post #60 of 66
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Registered: Nov 28, 2001
Posts: 149
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In reply to: ...One problem I kept having: I used 4 etriers, they get FUBAR fast. They twist all up...
I find that the ladder-style aiders don't twist up nearly as bad as the old school alternate-step aiders. Besides, I use just 2 ladder aiders until the angle gets past vertical. So most of the time there are not 4 aiders in action trying to get tangled.
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iamthewallress
May 4, 2005, 5:50 PM
Post #61 of 66
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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In reply to: I find that the ladder-style aiders don't twist up nearly as bad as the old school alternate-step aiders. Besides, I use just 2 ladder aiders until the angle gets past vertical. So most of the time there are not 4 aiders in action trying to get tangled.
Ditto.
Other tricks that use to keep the ladder CF down:
1. When it's a bit too tricky or unstable to use just two ladders easily, but the aid isn't too scarey, I clip a shoulder lenght runner, sometimes knotted in the middle, to each of my ladder biners. I don't need a it when I'm climbing low in my steps, but it helps me pop up high into my steps and/or stablize myself in the one ladder as I move the other up to the next piece.
2. Use an unattached floating ladder to turn either of your single ladders attached to your daisies into double ladders. Don't drop it. Bring a spare for when you do drop it. Ladders of the same height can be more stable, but a pocket aider is lighter/less bulk. Depends on what you need.
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graniteboy
May 4, 2005, 10:39 PM
Post #62 of 66
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Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
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Although the last time I heard from AKclimber, he was talking smack to me about the Big Mountain (denali), I will be nice.
1) If you wanna learn how to aid climb, run away from home and live in the valley for a couple years.
2) Aiders, fifis, etc get Fubar when you're disorganized. And when it's windy (especially updrafts). The latter is gonna happen. But the former, you have control over. Work on a systematic way of doing things.
3) Log lots of miles. Experience, judgement and skill are WAY more important than fancy gear.
4) use the rock features to balance on hi steps.
5) get used to making a free move or three from your aiders, then returning to aid. You'd be surprised how often you need to do that in the real world.
6) Practice jugging and hauling, cause during your valley apprenticeship (aforementioned) , you're gonna do alot of it.
7) try not to talk smack about graniteboy. He's your elder, and your apparent mentor.
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climbhigher
May 6, 2005, 8:07 AM
Post #63 of 66
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
Posts: 224
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Cool....We need more BETA!!!!! LOL...hand feed it to me please.
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climbhigher
May 6, 2005, 8:36 AM
Post #64 of 66
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Registered: Dec 6, 2002
Posts: 224
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Docking the haul bag seems to save me lots of time. Keeping myself hydrated over a period of time keeps me moving. Always bring a little bottle with you for every lead. Dont forget to sip water while belaying. At night before heading to bed dig out the next days supply of water while u have everything still out of the haulbag. Keeping one platypus or simialar device with tube to stick in your mouth while belaying will keep u hydrated. Don't swivle up into a little prune to the size of that bolt your hanging from. Dont chug your water. Slowly consume it over a long period of time. (Dont get really dehydrated and then chug all your water at once) You will just piss it out really quick...(yellow and stinky....Yucky).
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peroxide
May 6, 2005, 11:31 AM
Post #65 of 66
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Registered: May 3, 2004
Posts: 117
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Things to keep the ship running smoothly:
1) Organize your rack
I use little labels to remind where everything goes. It sounds, and looks, dorky but works. Get used to cam hooking. It keeps your rack lighter and is faster.
2) Two aider method first
Two aiders only in the beginning or you are going to drive yourself mad. Also if you have adjustable daisies I recommend not having a fifi on your harness. This will do two things...it will remove a very annoying catch and hooking point and will also force you into the 2nd steps more quickly.
3) Wear comfortable free climbing shoes
I wear some roomy 5.10 spires or Ballet Golds...they rock.
4) Bounce a piece 3 times and get the hell onit.
Once you place and bounce totally commit. Get a rhythm.
5) Work your abs and back
Nothing will make you feel tougher than having tough abs and an even stronger lower back. Do dead lifts and weighted crunches.
6) Tripod and flag
When I am in my aiders I often pull a Dorothy and click my heels together to tripod and add more stability. Sometimes one foot in aiders, leg flagged out, will get you that added reach, It is strenous though.
7) Wallbags keep things tidy
Buy a bunch of Fish or Metolius stuff bags. Lots of color...lots of tags...keep things tidy.
Rock on
Andrzej
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peroxide
May 6, 2005, 11:33 AM
Post #66 of 66
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Registered: May 3, 2004
Posts: 117
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I though of another.
Climb with cams, protect with nuts.
This makes your cleaner's life easier (a weighted brass nut can be hellish to remove). I will climb with cams and cam hooks and then backplace snug nuts. A good tug to keep it there but not weighted such that it becomes a big headache.
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