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itstoearly
Mar 14, 2011, 2:43 PM
Post #26 of 40
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Registered: Jun 25, 2005
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Some road blocks that may be causing this:
First, many gyms will extend the difficulty of V0 and V1 down quite a bit to make bouldering more accessible to new climbers. You may find that V3 is more true to V3 difficulty at your gym, and so the gap is much bigger.
Second, you may be developing a lot of strength and no balance, footwork, or technique. Many easy bouldering problems in some gyms can be muscled through (again, to make bouldering more accessible to new climbers). Watch other people boulder. Don't be afraid to talk to other climbers. Many climbers love giving tips and beta.
Third, you may not be giving your body enough rest. Every other day climbing will often be OK, but I know for me personally, sometimes I need 2 days to recover if I really wear myself out.
Fourth, depending on your body, it may just be that you need to start dropping some weight. Even if you aren't a fatty, you might be surprised how much extra weight your body has. I dropped 5 lbs and was able to increase 2 or 3 levels in climbing.
Fifth, try toproping. As a beginning climber, you should climb as many varieties of climbs as you can, and toproping can add to the variety greatly. Don't have a belayer? Make friends at the gym and belay each other.
Sixth, Find your weaknesses and work on them. Good at crimps? Work the slopers. Love the overhanging walls? Try the vertical walls (or slab walls, although you probably won't find bouldering problems on slab walls).
Lastly, don't get caught up in grade chasing. Grades are subjective. I may be able to climb something that plays to my strengths, but a climb of the same rating that plays to my weakness might be too difficult.
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ENARE
Mar 14, 2011, 4:30 PM
Post #27 of 40
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Registered: Feb 8, 2011
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How have you progressed on this man?
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Stoves
Mar 15, 2011, 4:00 AM
Post #28 of 40
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Registered: Jan 24, 2011
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Absolutely!
I think what helped me the most was turning down a notch, focusing more on v0's and v1's with technique in mind. I would send the same problems a few times over until they became very easy. (like many of you suggested, so thanks for that folks
Then I notice that the v2's were a lot easier (:
So when i get to the gym I try to keep doing that but i get excited with my progress and end up doing v3's and attempting to do v4s.
Working on a harder problem is just more fun for me.
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ENARE
Mar 15, 2011, 4:15 AM
Post #29 of 40
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Registered: Feb 8, 2011
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Stoves wrote: Working on a harder problem is just more fun for me.
That is definitely the truth! I am glad to hear that you are progressing. I just sended a V3 problem I had been working on. I was definitely stoked. Although, I am not climbing at the level that I used too, it is a lot more fun progressing that it is practicing.
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Stoves
Mar 25, 2011, 12:58 AM
Post #30 of 40
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Registered: Jan 24, 2011
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Development: Huge milestone! After a 2 days of projecting into a single move I finished my first v4!
The problem started with a dyno which is my strongest point. The jump itself wasent the bad but they way how you came into the hold was slimy as fuck! You had to use both hands to grab it, grabbing from the side. You were facing the wall but you had to jump to the side. Very fishy.
Sometimes I was able to grab the hold for a 2-3 seconds and had to let it go because i was swinging to much. Keeping my core tight was key to grab that hold.
After grabbing that sleazy hold I learned that I have to do a pull up in order to stop swinging.
The next two hold above were fairly easy but I got into some trouble just before the last hold. It's one of the situation that you just go for it using one leg and one arm, but not a dyno.
Woot!
-Very happy Stoves
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ceebo
Mar 25, 2011, 1:00 PM
Post #31 of 40
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Registered: Nov 9, 2009
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Stoves wrote: Development: Huge milestone! After a 2 days of projecting into a single move I finished my first v4! The problem started with a dyno which is my strongest point. The jump itself wasent the bad but they way how you came into the hold was slimy as fuck! You had to use both hands to grab it, grabbing from the side. You were facing the wall but you had to jump to the side. Very fishy. Sometimes I was able to grab the hold for a 2-3 seconds and had to let it go because i was swinging to much. Keeping my core tight was key to grab that hold. After grabbing that sleazy hold I learned that I have to do a pull up in order to stop swinging. The next two hold above were fairly easy but I got into some trouble just before the last hold. It's one of the situation that you just go for it using one leg and one arm, but not a dyno. Woot! -Very happy Stoves
You sound like a fun person to climb with. I find your enthusiasm inspiring, i really do.
As for the last move, did you mean a flagged position?. If not, and your unsure of the many variants, their worth looking into. Would make that last move allot easier (assuming your doing it in the way i imagine).
I don't mean to undermine your ability, just trying to help.
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 25, 2011, 1:59 PM
Post #32 of 40
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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Stoves wrote: Development: Huge milestone! After a 2 days of projecting into a single move I finished my first v4! The problem started with a dyno which is my strongest point. The jump itself wasent the bad but they way how you came into the hold was slimy as fuck! You had to use both hands to grab it, grabbing from the side. You were facing the wall but you had to jump to the side. Very fishy. Sometimes I was able to grab the hold for a 2-3 seconds and had to let it go because i was swinging to much. Keeping my core tight was key to grab that hold. After grabbing that sleazy hold I learned that I have to do a pull up in order to stop swinging. The next two hold above were fairly easy but I got into some trouble just before the last hold. It's one of the situation that you just go for it using one leg and one arm, but not a dyno. Woot! -Very happy Stoves
Good job, but with your trip coming up, don't you think you should be focusing on lead climbing 
Josh
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spikeddem
Mar 25, 2011, 2:12 PM
Post #33 of 40
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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
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Stoves wrote: Development: Huge milestone! After a 2 days of projecting into a single move I finished my first v4! The problem started with a dyno which is my strongest point. The jump itself wasent the bad but they way how you came into the hold was slimy as fuck! You had to use both hands to grab it, grabbing from the side. You were facing the wall but you had to jump to the side. Very fishy. Sometimes I was able to grab the hold for a 2-3 seconds and had to let it go because i was swinging to much. Keeping my core tight was key to grab that hold. After grabbing that sleazy hold I learned that I have to do a pull up in order to stop swinging. The next two hold above were fairly easy but I got into some trouble just before the last hold. It's one of the situation that you just go for it using one leg and one arm, but not a dyno. Woot! -Very happy Stoves
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ceebo
Mar 25, 2011, 4:00 PM
Post #34 of 40
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Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
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spikeddem wrote: Stoves wrote: Development: Huge milestone! After a 2 days of projecting into a single move I finished my first v4! The problem started with a dyno which is my strongest point. The jump itself wasent the bad but they way how you came into the hold was slimy as fuck! You had to use both hands to grab it, grabbing from the side. You were facing the wall but you had to jump to the side. Very fishy. Sometimes I was able to grab the hold for a 2-3 seconds and had to let it go because i was swinging to much. Keeping my core tight was key to grab that hold. After grabbing that sleazy hold I learned that I have to do a pull up in order to stop swinging. The next two hold above were fairly easy but I got into some trouble just before the last hold. It's one of the situation that you just go for it using one leg and one arm, but not a dyno. Woot! -Very happy Stoves Definitely sounds V4- to me. Sorry, man.
I never knew the SCC covers superconscious telepathy training. I will have to read it again.
Is it before the part about positive encouragement or after?.
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jbro_135
Mar 27, 2011, 3:50 AM
Post #35 of 40
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Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662
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spikeddem wrote: Stoves wrote: Development: Huge milestone! After a 2 days of projecting into a single move I finished my first v4! The problem started with a dyno which is my strongest point. The jump itself wasent the bad but they way how you came into the hold was slimy as fuck! You had to use both hands to grab it, grabbing from the side. You were facing the wall but you had to jump to the side. Very fishy. Sometimes I was able to grab the hold for a 2-3 seconds and had to let it go because i was swinging to much. Keeping my core tight was key to grab that hold. After grabbing that sleazy hold I learned that I have to do a pull up in order to stop swinging. The next two hold above were fairly easy but I got into some trouble just before the last hold. It's one of the situation that you just go for it using one leg and one arm, but not a dyno. Woot! -Very happy Stoves Definitely sounds V4- to me. Sorry, man.
yeah i flashed it...
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mr.tastycakes
Mar 31, 2011, 4:49 PM
Post #37 of 40
(4418 views)
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Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310
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ceebo wrote: spikeddem wrote: Stoves wrote: Development: Huge milestone! After a 2 days of projecting into a single move I finished my first v4! The problem started with a dyno which is my strongest point. The jump itself wasent the bad but they way how you came into the hold was slimy as fuck! You had to use both hands to grab it, grabbing from the side. You were facing the wall but you had to jump to the side. Very fishy. Sometimes I was able to grab the hold for a 2-3 seconds and had to let it go because i was swinging to much. Keeping my core tight was key to grab that hold. After grabbing that sleazy hold I learned that I have to do a pull up in order to stop swinging. The next two hold above were fairly easy but I got into some trouble just before the last hold. It's one of the situation that you just go for it using one leg and one arm, but not a dyno. Woot! -Very happy Stoves Definitely sounds V4- to me. Sorry, man. I never knew the SCC covers superconscious telepathy training. I will have to read it again. Is it before the part about positive encouragement or after?.
Do you hear that? It's the sound of something going over your head.
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freezorburn
Apr 29, 2011, 7:17 PM
Post #38 of 40
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Registered: Oct 19, 2005
Posts: 228
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"20-something sessions and you're still only climbing V2?!"
1) Start Bouldering Check
2) Get really good really fast Check
3) hit a small stumbling block Check
4) Realize this may not be that easy. Check
5) Post on RockClimbing.com get a bunch of replies by highly qualified experts willing to help! Check Check
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climber49er
May 11, 2011, 1:21 AM
Post #39 of 40
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Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
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Whenever I hit a bit of a block and don't feel like I'm progressing, I alternately focus like mad on technique on easier problems and then jump on a few problems that I have a hard time making one move on. The focus on technique often helps me to link a couple moves on the hard hard stuff which somehow works together to get me past the hump. That's just me though.
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mushroom
May 12, 2011, 4:22 PM
Post #40 of 40
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Registered: Mar 10, 2007
Posts: 230
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Stoves,
A couple things:
1. V3s require some bitchin' technique. I just sent one the other day that took the epitome of beta, using all sorts of rad footwork, drop knees, dead pointing crimps. Sometimes all you gotta do is sit there and empty your mind and let the answers come to you. Other times you gotta do some serious thought. We're talking about 5.11 here, bro!
2. Maybe you're whole body is weak. Try doing Mark Twight's 300 workout for a couple weeks (search for it on google). Perhaps what you need to do is develop foundational strength. What this means, is that your body cannot handle the workload required of sending V3. You need to focus on total fitness (big emphasis on TOTAL) so that your body can handle more work. This means strengthening your shoulders in all directions, building up your core, getting stronger quadriceps, et cetera. Your body is a giant puzzle of balance. You arms won't get stronger if your legs are wussy. This is the law of nature.
Good luck,
Nick
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Yeah what j_ung said. Whats the Rush, Your doing great. 
