|
kjwashson
Sep 27, 2012, 2:20 AM
Post #1 of 14
(10031 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2012
Posts: 9
|
I'm climbing in an area with a few hangerless bolts. I've read how one can protect them by purchasing moses keyholes, or using nuts ex:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2230195
I am just wondering using the nut method, I gather you slip the nutted end over the bolt and then slap your carabiner on the same end you normally would?
It seems like the strength rating on the nut for this type of load, basically loading it on center pulling it towards the end of the cable, would not be the same as when it's used as a chock.. I guess worse case the nut could break but you'd still have the wire to fall back on...
thanks in advance for your feedback.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Sep 27, 2012, 2:40 AM
Post #2 of 14
(10022 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
Just to be clear, you are supposed to slide the nut down the cables, place the end loop over the stud, then push the stopper up tight under the bolt. This yields a strength roughly equivalent to that of the swaged cable.
|
|
|
|
|
kjwashson
Sep 27, 2012, 3:15 AM
Post #3 of 14
(10009 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2012
Posts: 9
|
edge wrote: Just to be clear, you are supposed to slide the nut down the cables, place the end loop over the stud, then push the stopper up tight under the bolt. This yields a strength roughly equivalent to that of the swaged cable.
Ahh okay thanks, I wondered about that but with my BDs they didn't really seem to want to slide down so ruled it out. I'll have to monkey with them more see if I can get them to slide.
thanks for the reply
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Sep 27, 2012, 7:57 AM
Post #5 of 14
(9961 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
Those don't fit over a lot of carriage bolts...
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Sep 27, 2012, 7:57 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Sep 27, 2012, 12:08 PM
Post #6 of 14
(9922 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
edge wrote: Just to be clear, you are supposed to slide the nut down the cables, place the end loop over the stud, then push the stopper up tight under the bolt. This yields a strength roughly equivalent to that of the swaged cable.
It does work with BD nuts. I've done it many times.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Sep 27, 2012, 12:43 PM
Post #7 of 14
(9914 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
csproul wrote: edge wrote: Just to be clear, you are supposed to slide the nut down the cables, place the end loop over the stud, then push the stopper up tight under the bolt. This yields a strength roughly equivalent to that of the swaged cable. ^^This It does work with BD nuts. I've done it many times.
It's the same mode that I have seen them used as roach clips...
|
|
|
|
|
bearbreeder
Sep 27, 2012, 3:03 PM
Post #8 of 14
(9855 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
|
why not just bring a few hangers and different sized nuts for em ...
more secure IMO
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Sep 27, 2012, 3:10 PM
Post #9 of 14
(9847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
bearbreeder wrote: why not just bring a few hangers and different sized nuts for em ... more secure IMO
If you are in a position to do that fiddling - great. But a lot of times its not feasible plus the threads might be trashed, the bolt bent, etc. Sometimes the hanger is still there just loose and separated from the rocks and you an slip the wire behind it. Doing it with a nut means you are carrying any extra specialized gear. None of these represent ideal 100% perfect solution - but are better then nothing. That's what real world (as opposed to e-climbing on the Internet) usually boils down to.
|
|
|
|
|
bearbreeder
Sep 27, 2012, 3:28 PM
Post #10 of 14
(9840 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
|
youll have the nuts anyways ... just bring the hangers anyways ...
i mean how much do they weight? ... is hanging around fiddling with a nut trying to push the wire up any easier?
personally id rather have a solid hanger and 10mm nut on any decent bolts that might be there ... the wire/nut on hanger does not inspire too much confidence personally especially if the line wanders ... ie drag
if the bolts are bad anyways, you still have the nuts
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Sep 27, 2012, 3:56 PM
Post #11 of 14
(9827 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
bearbreeder wrote: ... is hanging around fiddling with a nut trying to push the wire up any easier?
|
|
|
|
|
bearbreeder
Sep 27, 2012, 4:01 PM
Post #12 of 14
(9824 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
|
well can you say for the OP's climb that the threads are in poor condition?
just bring em both ... what would really suck is to find out that you could put a good hanger on em, but put a nut, the line wanders and the put pulls off with drag ...
the ones here ive seen i can hand tighten them enough ... but who knows ... more options is better IMO
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Sep 27, 2012, 5:08 PM
Post #13 of 14
(9789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
bearbreeder wrote: ... but put a nut, the line wanders and the put [nut] pulls off with drag ...
|
|
|
|
|
guangzhou
Sep 28, 2012, 3:14 AM
Post #14 of 14
(9658 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
|
I've used the wire nut on bolts over the years. Definately much easier than fiddling with a nut and hanger.
Wire nut, one size fits all.
Bolts and hangers:
Different size bolt stud
buttong heads
different threads
beat-up unusable threads
Even is you carried a few hanger and various nuts, a wire is much easier. You don't have to figure how which nut fits the threads.
In the Blue Mountains, they often have carrot bolts. Bolts designed to have a removable hanger. You carry the hangers in your chalk bag, place them on the bolt stub, then clip it. Even with the process being designed for climbing, getting the carrots on can be a real %^&%$.
Read more here: http://www.pointperp.com/...t_Perpendicular.html
|
|
|
|
|
|
