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cjmorelikepj
Aug 27, 2013, 8:37 PM
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I am wanting to buy a new pair of shoes and need some advice.
I am currently wearing a pair of Five Ten Anasazi Moccasyms (size 10) that are too big for me (should have gotten size 9 or 9 1/2). I want my next shoe to be more aggressive and better at edging.
I have been climbing for about 5 months and am at 5.10c-5.11 level. The majority of my climbing has been top roping and bouldering at my local gym.
I have read and heard good things about the Evolv Shaman, but it seems to be geared more towards overhang climbing and for advanced climbers. Would this shoe be appropriate for someone at my level with the type of climbing I am doing? What are your shoe recommendations?
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shockabuku
Aug 28, 2013, 2:04 AM
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They'll be fine if they fit right.
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brinosaur
Aug 28, 2013, 1:12 PM
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The Shamans don't do it for me. I didn't like the fit, and the toes were too downturned for me to edge comfortably. Your mileage may vary.
I'd recommend the following as good all-around shoes --
CHEAP: Evolv Bandits (laceup or velcro). A decent, stiffer shoe. Not very aggressive, but moreso than the moccs. Very good edging and super-snug heel cup. The color sucks.
MID-RANGE: 5.10 Anasazi (laceups, white). Another good edging shoe. For me, the heel cup doesn;t fit as well as the bandits, but it's snug enough.
PRICEY: La Sportiva Miuras (laceup or velcro). Great shoes IF fit properly. Like the other shoes mentioned, but made with better materials and will likely last longer and be worth resoling. The velcro model is significantly more aggressive than the laceups.
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lena_chita
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Aug 28, 2013, 6:01 PM
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cjmorelikepj wrote: I am wanting to buy a new pair of shoes and need some advice. I am currently wearing a pair of Five Ten Anasazi Moccasyms (size 10) that are too big for me (should have gotten size 9 or 9 1/2). I want my next shoe to be more aggressive and better at edging. I have been climbing for about 5 months and am at 5.10c-5.11 level. The majority of my climbing has been top roping and bouldering at my local gym. I have read and heard good things about the Evolv Shaman, but it seems to be geared more towards overhang climbing and for advanced climbers. Would this shoe be appropriate for someone at my level with the type of climbing I am doing? What are your shoe recommendations?
If it fits, it would be appropriate. Have you even tried them on yet?
You will probably find them much stiffer than Mocs, whether you like it, or not... only you will know.
Mocs are among the softest shoes out there, they might not be supportive enough for a newer climber, but other than that... you can climb in them for the rest of your life. Go down in size, since your current ones are too big, and enjoy. There is a reason why they have been around and unchanged for well over a decade, while other models have come and gone. There are very few soft/narrow/low-profile-toe shoes out there that are better than Mocs.
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Krizob
Sep 19, 2013, 5:45 PM
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I had a pair of evolve Es Pontas and absolutely loved them, but they only lasted 3/4 of a season. If you're bouldering a lot, be sure to test the shoes with some full-weighted heel hooking and be sure the shoe doesn't slip/peel off the heel at all.
I currently wear a pair of Scarpa Feroce's now and think they're the best shoe I've ever had (for bouldering and single pitch sport, indoor and out). Scarpa's generally just fit my feet perfectly without even being broken in, so I might just be lucky but I highly recommend Scarpa's as I've loved every pair I've had.
Don't worry about a shoe being marketed towards 'advanced' climbers. It's kind of BS. I mean, I bought a pair of La Sportiva Nagos to be my comfortable trad/multipitch shoe, and they're a 'beginner' shoe. They don't edge, they don't smear, and they're so insecure I'm getting rid of them. I was struggling on a V3 problem the other day because my feet just peeled off, then I put my Feroces on and sent it first try.
Might as well get the best shoe's possible, I don't know why they market low performance shoes as beginner shoes - a beginner should get the best shoes possible, like any other climber. I used to think shoes couldn't make that much of a difference, but they seriously do.
Everyone seems to love the Sportiva Solutions for bouldering/gym climbing. Go for something aggressive that will still edge well on verticle climbs and so long as it fits your feet properly it'll be fine no matter what brand you go with.
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bearbreeder
Sep 19, 2013, 6:00 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
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Krizob wrote: I had a pair of evolve Es Pontas and absolutely loved them, but they only lasted 3/4 of a season. If you're bouldering a lot, be sure to test the shoes with some full-weighted heel hooking and be sure the shoe doesn't slip/peel off the heel at all. I currently wear a pair of Scarpa Feroce's now and think they're the best shoe I've ever had (for bouldering and single pitch sport, indoor and out). Scarpa's generally just fit my feet perfectly without even being broken in, so I might just be lucky but I highly recommend Scarpa's as I've loved every pair I've had. Don't worry about a shoe being marketed towards 'advanced' climbers. It's kind of BS. I mean, I bought a pair of La Sportiva Nagos to be my comfortable trad/multipitch shoe, and they're a 'beginner' shoe. They don't edge, they don't smear, and they're so insecure I'm getting rid of them. I was struggling on a V3 problem the other day because my feet just peeled off, then I put my Feroces on and sent it first try. Might as well get the best shoe's possible, I don't know why they market low performance shoes as beginner shoes - a beginner should get the best shoes possible, like any other climber. I used to think shoes couldn't make that much of a difference, but they seriously do. Everyone seems to love the Sportiva Solutions for bouldering/gym climbing. Go for something aggressive that will still edge well on verticle climbs and so long as it fits your feet properly it'll be fine no matter what brand you go with.
a beginner will tend to blow out shoes quickly
no reason to spend $$$$$ shoes when your footwork is crap
some of these "beginner" shoes climb quite well ... especially if youre doing less than overhanging sport/trad
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