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julio412
May 30, 2009, 2:19 PM
Post #1 of 14
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Registered: May 16, 2005
Posts: 144
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With the Sierra ice season just around the corner,
I've been trying to find a good set of tools for my wife.
This may sound a little sexist( not that this crowd cares)
But as women don't have the same upper body strength,
and even( God forgive me)seem to struggle some with
the mechanics,I think a lot of the tools out there are
more attuned to a male attitude ( for better and de-
finitely for worse).
I think because of the lack of upper body strength,2
things become critical- weight and pick angle.
I have an old pair of Cassin Formulas(Walmart Cobras)
these worked incredibly well, were cheap and reasonably light.
Rumor had it that the Ricardo was even thinking of making them in 45cm lengths, just for Women.
My wife prefers the security of leases,but the geometry
of the picks seems a little shallow( man, I can hear it already)for reasonable penetration and anchorage.
So now I'm actually looking at a pair of Roosterheads
(here we go again), these were the American spinoffs
of 'terrors with the bonus of a hand guard/ secondary spike.
They are about 40 cm,straight shaft (oh no) and reasonably light and dry tool like nobody's business.
The length and weight (Jesus)makes them easy to control.
My question? You boyfriends/ husbands; have you found tools that work for the better half?
Grivel Matrixes, Simond Superfoxes,Camp third tools,
?
Luckily I'm in Russia, so the Feminazis can't reach me;
even though this is a serious post
M
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error
May 30, 2009, 3:44 PM
Post #2 of 14
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Registered: Oct 28, 2008
Posts: 69
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Does it matter with what tool she'll cut your Faberge off?  Let HER choose HER weapon
Keep in mind the 7th grade physics though: Short tool = less kinetic energy in the head = penetration sucks
Try Grivel Matrix Tech / Quantum Tech + BD Android leash if needed
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roy_hinkley_jr
May 30, 2009, 6:36 PM
Post #3 of 14
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Registered: Sep 8, 2005
Posts: 652
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Take a look at the CAMP Divax. It's only 530 g and has a narrow grip for smaller hands. 50 cm but going shorter isn't a good idea since women are usually shorter and appreciate the reach.
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granite_grrl
May 31, 2009, 12:47 AM
Post #4 of 14
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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Take a look at something with a steep pick angle like the Nomics. I don't have a very aggressive swing and I was super happy when I switched over from the old Vipers to the Nomics. I no longer have to bury the pick for a solid placement. The Nomics are also great for hooking, which mean (especially when following) less swinging.
I've also heard that the Nomics have a smaller diameter handle than a lot of other tools. Good for small woman hands (note: I have man sized hands and cannot confirm).
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timd
May 31, 2009, 8:46 AM
Post #5 of 14
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Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 862
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Take a look at the Reactors. I know a lot of the ladies like those.
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kiwiprincess
May 31, 2009, 10:27 AM
Post #6 of 14
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Registered: Oct 26, 2007
Posts: 307
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When I began I prefered a lighter tool, but they were quite basic.
Now I really like Petzl Quarks since they can be used leashless so you can shake out, to get rid of the pump and get a good placement, but I take the axe and hammer off to lighten them up. You can put the leashes on easy if you decide it's a bit too scary leashless too.
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tigerlilly
Jun 1, 2009, 4:07 PM
Post #7 of 14
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 564
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This gal with a wimpy upper body just loves the Grivel Quantum Techs. I did have a standard simple leash on them when I first used them, but have gone leashless and find it so much less complicated, and much easier to shake out.
Kathy
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swaghole
Jun 1, 2009, 4:35 PM
Post #8 of 14
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Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 371
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I don't know if weight or shaft length is that much of a factor - even for women. My wife climbs with MY Grivle Takkoons - a fairly heavy tool. I bought her a pair of Vipers because they are slightly lighter yet she prefers the heavier Takkooon. When we climb together, I she won't let me on them :(
To answer your post - let her decide what she prefers and what you can both find and afford.
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landongw
Jun 2, 2009, 3:31 AM
Post #9 of 14
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
Posts: 114
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I think a can of pink spray paint should make just about any tool just right for her
I've noticed that my Vipers penetrate much better than Quarks or other Petzls (can't remember name), I believe it has to do with a difference in pick angle.
I'm a small guy, buck thirty five usually, and thought at first to go with a lighter tool. After a little bit of climbing though, I found that a heavier tool was much nicer to climb with. The Vipers are nice because they have a pretty light shaft, but heavy head. The Cobra is even better for this. I even ended up putting a bigger hammer on my tools to give them more head weight, and it made a huge difference.
So, like I said, go for the can of pink spray paint :)
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landongw
Jun 2, 2009, 3:33 AM
Post #10 of 14
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Registered: Nov 2, 2004
Posts: 114
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Oh, and/or some flower, butterfly decals.
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kiwiprincess
Jun 2, 2009, 3:36 AM
Post #11 of 14
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Registered: Oct 26, 2007
Posts: 307
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More than weight, balance is important. I once tried to use a friends tools and they just kept going back and took a mammoth effort to swing back in.
Take gloves when trying them out..some grips are terrible for a small hand.
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gunkiemike
Jun 2, 2009, 10:50 PM
Post #12 of 14
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
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landongw wrote: I think a can of pink spray paint should make just about any tool just right for her I've noticed that my Vipers penetrate much better than Quarks or other Petzls (can't remember name), I believe it has to do with a difference in pick angle. I'm a small guy, buck thirty five usually, and thought at first to go with a lighter tool. After a little bit of climbing though, I found that a heavier tool was much nicer to climb with. The Vipers are nice because they have a pretty light shaft, but heavy head. The Cobra is even better for this. I even ended up putting a bigger hammer on my tools to give them more head weight, and it made a huge difference. So, like I said, go for the can of pink spray paint :)
Same experience here. I own a set of CAMP Awax'es. They're a very light tool so I figured they'd be good for women and new climbers. But the women who've used them don't generate sufficient head speed to get them to penetrate hard ice well. I know when I climb with them it takes a vicious snap of the wrist to get good sticks. Most new climbers IME prefer the Quarks, or Vipers. I have seen some new climbers - of both sexes - who have a pitifully slow swing, and without some heft in the head, the pick just doesn't go in.
The Quantum Tech is a good compromise. Light, great balance, and a wicked sharp pick that sticks well with minimal effort.
My wife has strong wrists (years of playing tennis) and likes the Quarks.
(This post was edited by gunkiemike on Jul 27, 2009, 12:18 PM)
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welle
Jun 19, 2009, 5:55 PM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Aug 8, 2008
Posts: 212
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I'm female and don't have much heft in my upper extremities. In fact I broke my left shoulder snowboarding in January and went ice climbing 2 weeks after. So my left arm was super-weak entire ice season here in NE. Climbing with friends etc. I got to try different tools, Quarks, Trangos, Vipers and Cobras. From them all I liked the Cobras the best (older slightly heavier model). I found newer Vipers and Cobras a bit on a lighter side, so the heads wouldn't plunge in as easily as weighted older cobras. I think you can get newer Cobras and Vipers and add some weight to the to picks with screws. I didn't care much about Quarks.
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rockcritter
Jul 17, 2009, 4:11 PM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Jul 17, 2009
Posts: 1
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Petzl Quarks! Light-weight, pinky guard, and can go leashless. I've climbed with my at Lee Vining, Whitney Icefalls, San Berdu Mtns (YES), Mt Lamarck and Patagonia. Love em Love em Love em!
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