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gravitymaster
Mar 31, 2002, 11:04 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
Posts: 16
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I'm using a silent partner self-belay device, and I need a new rope. Since I need to carry much of the rope when soloing, I would like my new rope to be as light as possible. I also want it to have the smallest impact force, since a belayer can use dynamic techniques and not the silent partner. And durability is always of concern...
So I was thinking to buy the Beal Booster 9.7mm. Seem to be a good rope, but the instruction manual of the silent partner say to use it only with rope of 9.8mm to 11mm...
I know a camming device (soloist, soloaid, grigri...) would fail to work with a rope to small, but the silent partner use a clove hitch for blocking the rope.
Is it because they didn't test it on smaller rope or is there a danger to use it with à 9,7mm ? If anyone can help me, or have try it and would know the result of putting a 9,7mm rope on the silent partner, I would like to know. If not, I'll probably go with the silent parnert at the climbing shop and try it before a buy any lightweight rope.
Climb on !
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gravitymaster
Apr 1, 2002, 9:12 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
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Ok, nobody seem to know, so I e-mail at Wren Industries. This is the e-mail they send me back.
"In response to your questions regarding the Silent Partner;
A 9.7 rope should work fine in the SP. The problem with going to a smaller rope is that when the device locks up in a fall, the smaller rope is harder to undo. This is why we recommend larger diameter ropes. Test the new rope on the ground with the SP to make sure it locks up to your satisfaction, and that you can undo the clove hitch on the drum if weighted heavily.
Hope this helps,
Wren Industries LTD "
So I think I'll go with the Beal 9,7mm. Exept if any of you have a better rope to recommend me.
Thanks anyway
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Panibex
Jul 21, 2013, 8:15 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: May 1, 2011
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sittingduck
Jul 21, 2013, 11:33 PM
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Registered: Aug 19, 2003
Posts: 338
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If you look closely you will find that Gravitymaster posted that in 2002, 11 years ago.
Some time back there was an accident where a clove-hitch around a tree slipped. The investigation showed that a clove hitch will slip if it is tied around an object that has a diameter that is a lot larger than the diameter of the rope, like a tree. Might be relevant to your findings?
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