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About Buoux:

BUOUX… Sure you already heard of Buoux. No Man's Land (13a), La Rose et le Vampire (13d), Viol de Corbeaux (12c), Rêve de Papillon (13b), Azincourt (the first 8c and its long story)… The story of Lynn Hill falling from the top of the cliff…"La Vie au bout des Doigts", the climbing movie with Patrick Edlinger…
Buoux is a major and mythical limestone cliff (molasse) located in southern France, in the department of Vaucluse, not far from the city of Apt. This climbing site belongs to the mountaineous Massif du Lubéron (Parc Régional du Lubéron), east of Avignon, north of Aix-en-Provence. It stands over the small river Aiguebrun. It's mythical because many of the first French routes in 8a or 8 b were climbed here. Climbers like JC Droyer, JP Bouvier, Alex Duboc or the Ménestrel brothers used to "live" there. It's major because this crag is big, the routes ranging from mild (only 10 under 5.10a) to very difficult.

Buoux provides 450 sport climbing routes, from 35 to 100 meters (one to 3 pitches), on a small pocketed limestone (2 or three fingers), vertical or overhanging. This crag is perfect for spring and fall climbing, it's climbable even if the weather is cold, because it's facing south. In summer time, you can climb if you want to get red like an English climber!

Around 30 sections of routes. I classified them, from left to right.

Where to sleep?
free camping PROHIBITED
Gîte de la Sparagoule, in Buoux : +
Auberge des Seguins, at the bottom of the cliff : +
Auberge du Castelas, in Sivergues : +
Camping des Cèdres, in Apt (with bungalows) : +
Camping des Hautes-Prairies, in Lourmarin : +
Camping Les Chênes Blancs, in St-Saturnin-lès-Apt
Camping municipal, in Bonnieux : +

References :
Grimper#8S, summer 1995, pages 4-5, 12, 19…
Grimper#20, December 1996, page 28.
Grimper#28, January 1998, pages 48-62
Grimper#56H, summer 2001, pages 14-17.
Roc'n'Wall#13, July 1997, pages 90-102.
Sportkletterführer Südfrankreich, Band 1, by Timo Marschner, ed. Rotpunkt.
Topo-guide Buoux", new edition, 2004.

Nearest town or city: Apt
From Apt, drive to Buoux. Go beyond the village, turn left in the crossroads to Lourmarin, and drive to the parking lots (for the cliff and the stronghold).
From Aix-en-Provence, go to Cadenet, then Lourmarin…(you don't go through the village of Buoux).

Latitude, Longitude: 43.82023, 5.38152
Access Issues:
Camping: Pay
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Month

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