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Routes : Europe : Germany : Sachsen (Saxony) : Elbsandstein


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About Elbsandstein:

One of the largest climbing areas in Europe, this National Park about 25 miles East of Dresden features traditional climbing on 1,100+ free-standing sandstone towers embedded in a fairy-tale like, beautiful landscape. The area has about 17,000 climbs in all grades between 30 and 300 feet. The climbing here has some particulars, most importantly the prohibition of chalk and any metal protection gear such as nuts or cams. Climbs are protected using a variety of knotted cordage as chocks, tying off horns or ironrock plates with slings, or thread through "Sanduhren" (wormholes -literally "hourglasses") and ring bolts. Latter are used sparingly and have considerable distances between them. Most classics have rings only as belay stances if any. There are a couple camp grounds in the area. Climbers also may stay overnight in certain designated spots beneath large overhangs (this is called "boofen" in Saxony). It is best to ask the locals for these spots. A good address for more information may be the Outdoor store "Bergsport Arnold" in Bad Schandau, owned by famous local Bernd Arnold (aka "The Lord of the Rings")