Routes : Europe : Romania : cheile bicaz : Gatul iadului (the hell neck) : gatul iadului : santinela de la gatul iadului
santinela de la gatul iadului - 5.11a A3
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1961 Gheorghe Enache, Tudor Hurbean Constantin Ursulescu
Rock (Trad)
Aid
R
8
old pitons, the first pitch has a 5.10 bolted crackline variant
1000
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Description:
combination of aid and hard free climbing, completely exposed until the last pitch on the ridge. this route was a great big-wall achievement in it-s day a still a local test-piece rarely done. the topo has romanian grades on it the free grades scale is from I to VI and the aid from A1 to A4 the modern equivalents are about 5.12 ish for VI free climbing and modern A2-A3 for old romanian A4. Bare in mind that the pins are up to 40 years old and the rock is limestone and fairly brittle on pitches 4-5 on classic topo.Descent Options:
follow the ridge then a path leading left and descend a gully to reach the main road through the gorge
Submitted by: cata08 on 2008-08-13
Views: 885
Route ID: 95325
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