About Castell Y Gwent (OS):
This is the BIG cliff of the Orme, with at least 15 three star routes on it. Too bad the average grade on the cliff is E5, although are several fine E2s and E3s. The cliff is around 120 feet tall, but the routes tend toward almost 200 feet long. The obvious line up the middle is Central Pillar, which goes at a stout E6. North facing, it can get cold on the belays, so bring a jacket. Also be careful of the birds, there are plenty of them, and their droppings tend to cover the larger holds when you can find them. |
Nearest town or city: | Llandudno |
Directions: | OS 115 GR SH 757 844 Alt. 63m Two miles northwest of Llandudno. Take the marine drive heading up the east side of the Great Orme until you reach the lighthouse. Just past the lighthouse entrance, go over the wall and down a grassy gully, where you will see the crag on the right. You can not miss it, it is BIG and IMPRESSIVE! |
Latitude, Longitude: | 53.34161, -3.86723 |
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Camping: | |
When to Climb: | |
Quantity of Climbs: | Lifetime |