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Junkyard - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
2 Bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

From the undercut, pull on some amazingly large jugs to reach the horizontal crack under the roof and the first bolt. Heel hook and layback the rib above the roof (crux) to the second bolt. The finishing moves to the anchor are run-out.

Submitted by: ipsofacto on 2004-05-09
Views: 723
Route ID: 6838

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: isayne14tennis on 2004-08-31 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars FUN!!!

Just plain cool. Lots of long reaches off soild jugs to a magnificent acrobatic display of heel hooking and gymnastic knee barring at the roof. Most photogenic. The finish was buried in lichen during my ascent, and there's not a great deal of pro lurking about. Maybe it was to be found under the moss. A not-to-be missed climb.

Added: 2007-08-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ipsofacto on 2003-07-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Easy for the grade, and a real one move wonder. If you can find the knee-bar, and get into it quickly enough at the roof, this one will be a cake walk. 11+

Witnessed by: Gord Smail
Added: 2003-07-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ryanguy on 1996-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Great route but really short. Took me a while to figure out the crux but unlike the photo of this route I used a heel hook and lay-back which requires less work. This was on a top-rope and I have yet to return and lead it.

Added: 1996-07-20