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Hotlum Glacier -

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Pickets in early season (May-July), screws later. Fall climbs are serious because of blue ice.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Base camp at the "Hilton" and head up terminal moraine onto glacier. Many longitudinal crevasses to practice rescue close by camp. The route is straight forward. Head up the middle of glacier passing three different ice falls. There are a few different options on how to finnish. One is to get to the upper "shrund" and exit climbers right which brings you to the "steppe" at 13,000' this is the upper part of the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge route. Another is to climb one of the ice gullies at climbers left (obvious), or if your up to it, the headwall direct. The direct headwall is five or six pitches of loose volcanic garbage that is said to have poor protection on 5.7 rock. If climbing the traditional route once on the "steppe" continue due south past the Rabbit Ears passing the North summit to the true summit. Just use your nose, the summit sulphur springs will guide you! This is the side of Shasta few people see. The nature of the climbing is nothing like the Gulch, more like somthing in Washington state. Come prepaired for crevasse rescue and varied conditions. Not a beginners route but great training for bigger mountains or for stuff up north. Please keep this awsome side of the mountain pristine.

Descent Options:

You could climb back the way you came or decend the Hotlum-Wintun. Take care when decending the Hotlum-Wintun because the snow conditions are often very bad (Think crotch deep rotten corn on top of blue glacial ice, or ankle snapping pennitentes). You wil

Submitted by: keithspernak on 2007-05-23
Views: 814
Route ID: 85995

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating PG13
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: keithspernak on 2003-08-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great glacier climb.

The ONLY side of Shasta worth climbing. Must do for the Californian lookin' to climb up north.

Added: 2007-05-23