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Buggery On The High Seas - 5.10c

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Draws, slings, pro to 1" (bring 2 ropes)
Consensus Ratings
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'Buggery' is located directly under the south summit (aka The Green Monster) and makes for a great direct line up the South Face. This climb begins 50 yards right of Whiskey Bill (see Mark Spencer's guide: Southern Yosemites Climbs). The 1st pitch (.10b/c) has 7 bolts to a two bolt belay anchor (under a small roof). Pro can be placed between bolts 6 and 7. The 1st pitch goes a full 60 meters! The 2nd pitch starts by going over the small roof and "laddering" up 5.5 chickenheads for 50 feet (slings for the chickenheads) till the first bolt is reached. Follow 2 more bolts to the "fat" belay anchors (a communal belay with the 3rd pitch of Whiskey Bill). Follow Whiskey Bill for 2 more pitches (5.7) to summit. Ignore the bolts on the summit shoulder...on 3rd class terrain!! (not part of the route). Better yet...chop 'em!

Submitted by: shakeyjay on 2002-02-08
Views: 992
Route ID: 11748

1 Ascent Recorded

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Red Point Red Point ascent by: shakeyjay on 2000-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

F.F.A. by Roger Hayashi and Dave Daly (July 1 2000). The moves between the first two bolts are the crux; requiring an interesting mantle off a shallow pocket (yikes!), delicate balancey moves and a good deal of friction. The upper section of the first pitch is very enjoyable as well (5.9 moves on small incut holds). Second pitch is fun moderate terrain (5.8 move near the top of pitch 2).

Witnessed by: Roger Hayashi
Added: 2000-07-01