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The Brighter Side - 5.10c

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Double cams to 2 inches. We did it with single in hand size, and were a few short on the first pitch. Other pitches require only singles.
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Start at the top of the creek between Grey Eagle and Lower Electric Eagle. We traversed in 50 ft up stream where the creek is not in a crevice. Pitch 1. Head up broken corners. 5.8 PG. 45 meters Pitch 2. Move belay 40 ft up and right and start in a OW dihedral. (I thought this was way harder than the 5.9 grade) Continue above dihedral and head toward bolts. There is a 10A runout to the first bolt with injury potential. Pass three bolts 10C.35 meters Pitch Three. Head straight up over a long easy runout with some slings. Clip a second bolt and do a few 5.10 slab moves. Head up further to belay. 10 B 35 meters. Move belay 100 ft left beneath a bolt, and make committing moves (with some gear) to bolt. Head up chicken head face with so-so knobs to protection in middle of face. 10C. Pitch 5. We followed the crack on the right to its end. The route follows this crack a few feet, and the heads up a steep face on the right. 5.8 60 meters.

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2014-09-09
Views: 209
Route ID: 115396