Start just left of Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines, following the bolts over the left half of the roof. There's a massively chalked up and bomber undercling at the start of the route (but basically worthless when climbing it). We had some discussion about the best or proper way to turn the roof. Our conclusion was that as long as you're reaching up to the ledge on the left side (~3 feet above the roof) from where you're coming from, it's the route. Continue up the thin left face.
Submitted by: stevematthys on 2002-06-29
Route ID: 20106
Took a nasty lead fall above the first bolt, banged up my shin. The first few moves are pretty sequency geting to the good hold on the overhang, blow it here, and you are looking at a pretty nasty pendulum. I advise bolting down your belayer if they weigh less than you. Second time went clean, but the first two bolts were stick clipped for me. This is a kick ass route if you can get the second bolt clipped. The climb is NOT over after you pull the roof! Let them doggies go free.