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Devils Head

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About Devils Head:

A fairly new area that has seen a lot of route development in the past few years. Around 200 routes now exist. Mostly composite granite sportclimbing with a fair selection of trad routes to boot. Understand it's a remote area and doesn't receive lots of traffic, so the trad routes are manky at best. Summer months are superb because of cool elevation. Can get a little windy and the flies are hellacious. Get there early as afternoon thundershowers are not uncommon. Make sure you bring a 60 meter rope as many routes/pitches are 90-100ft long.

While there is an extant guidebook, Tod is adding so many routes that it's outdated at best. Check with local craggers once you get there.
Nearest town or city: Sedalia
Directions: (Borrowed from From Denver, take highway 85 south to Sedalia. Then head west on highway 67 to the North entrance of the park at Rampart Range Road, 10 miles. Take this South for approximately 9 miles to Devil's Head campground and the Fire Tower. Be aware that the Rampart Range Road will be closed from the first Monday in December to sometime in April due to snow pack. Once at the parking lot, head up the tourist trail toward the Fire Tower about 1.5 miles. At a saddle well below the Fire Tower the trail forks right (to the tower) and left to the Zinn Overlook. Head LEFT for the Zinn Overlook along a well defined climbers trail. At the overlook, trails will fork directly toward the Headstone formation (left) and right, through the woods, toward the Red Wall, Starcastle, and The Shaft. Take the trail to the right - it's infinitely easier, and you'll drop 800 feet into the canyon and across a boulder field before arriving at the base of Headstone Wall - watch closely for cairns.
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Camping: Pay
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Month

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