p. 1 start at two obvious bolts within 15 feet of the ground. step right after the second bolt (not left as some books mention) and (easy runout) to the third - it's been retrobolted and the ancient one was left next to it. Continue straight past a stub (sling w/ stopper) to a comfy 2 bolt belay (5.8-)
p. 2 Approach the overlap on its right side, don't miss the hidden piton! Many use the bolt for a point of aid but working the moves is 5.10-, up left to another hidden piton and then straight for 40+ feet to a 2 bolt belay in a shattered bowl.
p. 3 wander straight for 100+ feet and trend right towards the tree clup. Stretch the ropes out and belay on bolts right of the tree clump (5.4)
p. 4 Stellar! The Milky Way pitch. Leave your rack at the belay, take several draws for the mixture of sometimes old bolts and pins, mindfully pad your way up the brilliant white rock to another 2 bolt anchor. (5.9-)
p. 5 Don't bother, the beer's calling.
Descent: three double rope raps.
Submitted by: lucander on 2006-10-15
Route ID: 59101
But the rest of the climb has its moments, too. Newer, more direct start (contrast Chauvin's online route description) gives additional good climbing. P.2 crux seems to go more easily for taller climbers (informal survey), otherwise requires substantial crimp strength. Milky Way pitch is fantastic. It's well protected by bolts. They may seem a little far apart but there are no ledges, no hazards. G rating.
Nice climb. Great views. Did pitch 5 beacuse we only had 1 rope. (OOPS !) Finished on upper tier climb "One Fork East of Eden" or whatever it is called for 2 additional pitches all the way to the summit. R rating for final pitch of both climbs.