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Across the Universe - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Todd Swain in the 1980s
Rock
PG13
4
Largely fixed. Light rack to 2.5 inches, double ropes.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.83/5
  Fun Factor 4.83/5

Description:

p. 1 start at two obvious bolts within 15 feet of the ground. step right after the second bolt (not left as some books mention) and (easy runout) to the third - it's been retrobolted and the ancient one was left next to it. Continue straight past a stub (sling w/ stopper) to a comfy 2 bolt belay (5.8-) p. 2 Approach the overlap on its right side, don't miss the hidden piton! Many use the bolt for a point of aid but working the moves is 5.10-, up left to another hidden piton and then straight for 40+ feet to a 2 bolt belay in a shattered bowl. p. 3 wander straight for 100+ feet and trend right towards the tree clup. Stretch the ropes out and belay on bolts right of the tree clump (5.4) p. 4 Stellar! The Milky Way pitch. Leave your rack at the belay, take several draws for the mixture of sometimes old bolts and pins, mindfully pad your way up the brilliant white rock to another 2 bolt anchor. (5.9-) p. 5 Don't bother, the beer's calling. Descent: three double rope raps.

Submitted by: lucander on 2006-10-15
Views: 728
Route ID: 59101

12 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: girlclimb on 2012-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars love the view

northing like the whites

Added: 2012-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rhei on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Worthwhile just for p.4

But the rest of the climb has its moments, too. Newer, more direct start (contrast Chauvin's online route description) gives additional good climbing. P.2 crux seems to go more easily for taller climbers (informal survey), otherwise requires substantial crimp strength. Milky Way pitch is fantastic. It's well protected by bolts. They may seem a little far apart but there are no ledges, no hazards. G rating.

Added: 2011-10-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mnottingham on 2011-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Across the Universe

Nice climb. Great views. Did pitch 5 beacuse we only had 1 rope. (OOPS !) Finished on upper tier climb "One Fork East of Eden" or whatever it is called for 2 additional pitches all the way to the summit. R rating for final pitch of both climbs.

Added: 2011-08-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: lbaxterh on 2003-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice climb

sara led. rained at last pitch

Added: 2008-04-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jbaldassare on 2002-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars classic

a great climb with a perplexing crux

Added: 2007-11-03

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