Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Trad, Cams up to #4 (camalot) helpful, but can be adequately protected with up to #2.
This route follows the prominent left facing inside corner up to a roof.
P1. Climb any of the ledges/ramps/cracks between Cramped Thumb and Three Buttress to a large, often vegetated ledge. Move up to a small belay ledge at the beginning of the inside corner, 10 feet left of a bolt. Rope drag and vegetation can be a pain. Bring extenders.
P2. The reason to do this climb. Follow a fantastic seam up the inside corner. When your head hits the roof, traverse right around the corner to a fixed piton on the ledge(Possible belay). You can avoid the ledge and pull the roof to another piton (var 1. below)
P2/3. The rock from here up is poor quality. Be careful. Var. 1. Follow a left trending crack to the chained belay/rap for Afterburner. Clip the fixed piton just left of the ledge and over the roof on your way. Rap here or continue up large ledges to a set of bolts at the fence. Var 2. Follow a seam up the middle of the ledge through a small roof to a large, slightly overhanging tree. Build an anchor in the rock behind the tree.
From the afterburner chains or the tree, a 60m rope will reach the bottom with very little to spare. Walk off past the practice face. A set of chains have been installed on Open Face as well (60m).
Submitted by: abobo123 on 2008-12-11
Route ID: 97275
This route is not often climbed because of the vegetation on the lower pitch. My guide book says "Included for posterity". So we rapped from the top and cleaned this entire route. It still has alot of dirt on it, hopefully will be cleaner after some rain. The bottom pitch was badly overgrown and there was P.I. growing up of the crack in the second. The lower pitch doesn't follow as per my guide book, that's still overgrown, but that's not why you climb this route anyway For stover, this is a great trad line with the exception of the rock at the top. It's about on par with Hawks nest's first pitch.
The first pitch is easy climbing with lots of rope drag over the ledges. The second pitch up the inside corner is what makes it worth it. The protection is great and it has some interesting moves. The 2/3 pitch at the top has very poor quality rock. We chose to rap from here and rap again from the top to retrieve our anchor rather than attempt to onsite on such poor looking rock. We're considering donating some bolts and chains to the upper ledge, because the lower pitches are quite fun.