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Direct North Face of Coalpit Buttress 5.9/A2 - A2

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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extra blades and lost arrows. Some Angles, and a free rack. The description in the main guidebook
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This route isn't on the Triangle Wall, instead it is on the buttress out of the gulley of the Triangle Wall to the right(west). As driving up the road from Salt Lake, this route ascends the giant roof system west of the Triangle Wall. Approach via the same as Triangle wall, but hike west onto a scramble ledge. Pitch one) climb a slab to a system of finger cracks heading up and left to the obvious big tree. This starts a little west from below the big tree. Pitch two) aid up and right through thin cracks that eventually move left underneath the big roof. Gingerly trust your weight to some old fixed gear, then climb out the roof to a belay about 20' above the lip. The anchor consists of two old lost arrows (possible left by Lowe himself) and a bashed in sideways nut. Bring a bolt kit if your not comfortable with this. Fun route Bring a experienced aid climber to clean it.

Submitted by: stroker on 2003-07-23
Views: 581
Route ID: 38423