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NW Ridge - D

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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a few pickets and ice screws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


A really nice climb. Start from Tocllaraju high camp (half a day from Ishinca valley); you can camp either next to a section of rock at 5200m or on a col at 5300m. Cross the first shrund about 1.5hr after the camp (difficulty varies year to year, can be a few meters of near vertical climbing); then proceed to another bergshrund right next to the summit. It is normally crossed on the right but once again it varies year to year - we had to cross it at the leftmost part. After that its approximately 80m of moderate climbing on ice/snow, a little steeper at first (~60*), then more gentle (~45*). Rappel back. The year we climbed there was another bergshrund about 30min before the summit pitch. There are often pickets left from the previous parties that can be used for rapelling but don't count on finding them after new snow.

Submitted by: chalkbag on 2003-09-12
Last Modified: 2010-07-16
Views: 807
Route ID: 39798

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty D
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: coolcatpet4e on 2010-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bad conditions

The weather turned on us fast :(

Added: 2010-07-12

Red Point Red Point ascent by: chalkbag on 2003-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2003-07-10