A really nice climb. Start from Tocllaraju high camp (half a day from Ishinca valley); you can camp either next to a section of rock at 5200m or on a col at 5300m. Cross the first shrund about 1.5hr after the camp (difficulty varies year to year, can be a few meters of near vertical climbing); then proceed to another bergshrund right next to the summit. It is normally crossed on the right but once again it varies year to year - we had to cross it at the leftmost part. After that its approximately 80m of moderate climbing on ice/snow, a little steeper at first (~60*), then more gentle (~45*). Rappel back. The year we climbed there was another bergshrund about 30min before the summit pitch. There are often pickets left from the previous parties that can be used for rapelling but don't count on finding them after new snow.
Submitted by: chalkbag on 2003-09-12
Last Modified: 2010-07-16
Route ID: 39798