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Paradoxal Squares - 5.12a

Average Rating = 2.67/5 Average Rating : 2.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.50/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

Just left of Arkansas Reality, climb thin roof crack , turn lip and into the offwidth you go.

Submitted by: berkly on 2005-10-19
Views: 991
Route ID: 64395

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: LCHarris on 2011-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars First accent clarification...

Clay Frisbee had already placed gear under the roof when he asked if I'd want to give it a go. I went up with no gear, expecting not to make it through the crux, which was shutting other guys down. When I managed to pull through it I was stuck in a situation of either backing off or going through with the on-sight. Up I went. At any rate the route was originally named Persecuted by Squares. If Clay re-named it, it is perhaps because he later sent it without the pre-placed protection--a cleaner accent. Also, two things: one, the original grade was 5.11d and two, it is a sad state of affairs when someone bolts something that can be protected with gear.

Added: 2011-06-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: altius7 on 2008-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good climb on a good wall.

Clay was actually belying Larry when he got the FA. This route was fun, and the rock quality was not bad at all. There are now some bolts under the roof making it much less scary, but in all reality it could be protected fairly well without them.

Added: 2008-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: scracus on 1991-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars hmmm

I think that the name is wrong. I'm not recording my ascent but, I think that this route was first done by Larry Harris of Tulsa, in 1991, who called it "Persecuted by Squares". I gave it low quality marks, due to Larry, saying that it was a pile. Clay Frisbie was hanging on Ark Reality watching while Larry onsighted this thing with like one piece of gear and then running out the crux that was too hard for him to protect wherafter he surmounted the roof and untied and soloed off to the side and down. Larry said this was quite scary and I was scared for him as he was in ground fall risk whillst screaming about how pumped he was. Anyway I think this is some history about this route.

Added: 2008-02-01