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Forums:
Climbing Disciplines:
Alpine & Ice:
Re: [deltav] 1st Ice Gear:
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brent_e
Feb 14, 2007, 5:11 AM
Views: 2093
Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
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honestly, ALL of this stuff but the screw length is personal preference (maybe double boots over singles is not personal preference but a matter of area or needed warmth for you). You just have to get out and try it and see what feels good to you.
For screws, though, seeing as you're new you're likely going to be climbing fatter ice so 16's and a couple 22's will be good. Later you can get some shorter screws for nasty stuff.
My personal preferences for gear:
Tools. I've swung old DMM Fly's, Trango Mantis (straight and leashless), Fusions and Vipers a bit and for what I do the mantis has been pretty damn good. The pick angle is steep which works sometimes and doesn't other times.
Crampons. My first set were lightfangs by camp (OLD), then DMM Terminators (used in mono and dual), then Petzl Charlet Darts. The darts are my favorite. They have the most finicky and PITA binding (sidelock) but they work and the front point orientation is great for me.
Screws. used BD's, prefer grivels. The 360's don't rack as well, but I like the threads more, i like the handles more (on the Helix AND on the 360), they seem to place better and in tighter spots for me.
Boots. Make sure they fit. Vasque seems to have a wide last. Sportiva seems to have a narrower last. I have wide feet. I used a narrower boot for a bit (Salomon Super mountain 9) and got my feet so cold they were numb for over a month.
Leash or No. I don't think I'll use leashes again. I'm not really experienced on ice and haven't led harder that WI4 or so, but I've had no need for leashes. I am making tethers for my tools, though.
Rope. I like using doubles so i have more things to kick. Using beal and edelrid. I'll have a beal joker paired with a beal cobra II pretty soon. We'll see how they work.
bye the way...BUY SCREAMERS! I've never deployed one, and I hope I never do, but i've heard stories of them saving peoples butts.
Good luck with your choices.
Brent
(This post was edited by brent_e on Feb 14, 2007, 5:13 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by brent_e
() on Feb 14, 2007, 5:13 AM
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Post edited by brent_e
() on Feb 14, 2007, 5:13 AM
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