Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [silascl] Lead Climbing question: Edit Log




Partner cracklover


Jul 12, 2007, 8:35 PM

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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162

Re: [silascl] Lead Climbing question
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silascl wrote:
Can you expand on #12 - Reduce fall force on gear?

Not sure I understand how that would work.

1 - In general, 1/2 ropes are less stiff as springs (different modulus) than single ropes. In other words, in a given fall, they'll stretch further, take longer to stop you, and put less force on your gear.

2 - The ropes may share the load of the fall, thus distributing the force to more than one piece.

3 - If a piece on one rope rips, and then the other rope catches the fall, that second rope may not have stretched at all yet. Thus that rope is dealing with a mass (you) travelling at a slower speed (less energy), and it has the full amount of stretch "left" with which to absorb the energy of your fall. That all means that the piece you're now falling on will feel less force.

Does that help?

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Jul 12, 2007, 8:37 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by cracklover () on Jul 12, 2007, 8:37 PM


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