Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [serpico] training with a weighted vest?: Edit Log




jto


Aug 15, 2007, 4:02 PM

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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
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Re: [serpico] training with a weighted vest?
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Interesting topic. (My background is a power and strength coach for over 15 years. I have been around climbing world for the last 5 years.)

- Many athletes use overweighted stuff in sport specific training with a lot of success. One example might be a hammer throw. The ahtletes might do over 70% (!) of their throwing training with oversized hammers. The success is quite dependant of the sport and the athletes abilities to maintain good technique.

- Climbers use weight vests too. Dave G reported using one too :) . A lot of frenchmen and spaniards use it as do many others in Europe. One good example up here north is Nalle Hukkataival from Finland (bouldering up to 8B+) who uses a vest quite often.

- Weight vests etc ARE bad for technique as they change the COG and that way the movement pattern etc. This is especially true in very movement centered sports as climbing is.

- Added weight in sport specific training must be carried out with a certain target in mind. In climbing one could use added weights for system wall type of exercises to work lock offs, body tension and finger strength etc.

- When training for climbing (movement skills) itself the added weight should not be used. This is the case in the most of the exercise sessions of course.

- If one likes to be very powerful in letīs say dynos the main target of training is movement training. When one can initiate the movement correctly itīs time to add speed and target the fast cells more. Thereīs no use training speed with a bad technique.

- If one likes to use weights the training must be general. No sport specific but raw iron in the gym etc. Get the muscles strong and then use very strict movement training to make them powerful. Neural stuff that is.

- About coaching: The coach canīt be the best athlete or even have very good results to show. Quite often the best coaches are those not so good in the sport they coach. The best athletes are the most gifted ones not the ones who know the most about training. Also a good coaching skill is also a gift. One example is a dentist (!) here in Finland who has coached a lot of World Champion and Olympic Champion javelin throwers and I might bet he has never thrown one himself :)

Cheers :)


(This post was edited by jto on Aug 15, 2007, 4:33 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jto () on Aug 15, 2007, 4:33 PM


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