Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [aerili] ATG squats, bad for the knees?: Edit Log




jto


Sep 17, 2007, 8:27 AM

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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
Posts: 272

Re: [aerili] ATG squats, bad for the knees?
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Iīve been in a field of sports rehab as well as coaching and wouldnīt use them in a rehab for cartilage injury or so of course. More like strengthening the ligaments etc if at all. For this purpose the regular leg exercises are often better. In that case (too) I agree.

As I said I wouldnīt recommend deep squats in general. Perhaps Iīm using the word rehab here a bit wrong as Iīm not english. Usually when rehabbing a knee from injuries we progress from very high knee angles and use a lot of balance oriented training with almost straight leg. Also traditional bikerides, water training, forest walks etc are in use. The progression is important of course.

Deeps are good for mobility and the main use with bodyweight is usually with balance oriented exercises with gym balls and slackline etc. This is done of course with healthy knees.

In climbing one has to go very deep and sometimes tolerate some torque in the same time like in rock overs, drop knees and close heel hooks. Because of this one has to train accordingly so the stresses to the knee wonīt come as surprises. Mobility and strength at deep knee angles is sometimes quite crucial.

The tolerance for deep squats is genetic. Of course itīs highly dependant on the training history and the proper progression in technique and weights but itīs not at all the whole picture.

Still many elite or not olympic lifters suffer from bad knees and others donīt even if they have a very similar training background. This has also been proven with a lot of experience on the field during all these years.

The same with climbers. Someone can train huge volumes of high impact bouldering two times a day and someone has to be very careful with everything dynamic even if both have years of climbing behind them. We are unique and sometimes that sucks big time Smile


(This post was edited by jto on Sep 17, 2007, 8:35 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jto () on Sep 17, 2007, 8:35 AM


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