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Re: [BradP] Dear Gunks climbers:
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rhythm164
Oct 3, 2007, 3:03 PM
Views: 19408
Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964
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BradP wrote: The Gunks is supposedly a climbing destination ensconced in traditional ethics. That is, a climbing area where routes are led from the ground up and ideally without permanently placed protection. In fact, many routes have been put up in the Gunks in impeccable style; hundreds of fine examples abound. Jacob's Ladder is quintessential. In 1960 Phil Jacobus on-sight led the first ascent of the Gunks' first 5.10. Jacob's Ladder is now rated 10b X. The 1970s saw the firm establishment of 5.12 in the Gunks, routes such as The Throne, Kama Sutra and Kansas City were established - the first ascentionists adhering to a staunch traditional ethic. Meanwhile Rich Romano developed Millbrook in the purest of style, forcing the creation of many R and X rated testpieces. In 1975 Creature Features saw its FA, only to have its first first ascentionists berated by Henry Barber as they had "Violated the high stylistic standards of the day by previewing the route... [on] toprope" (Dick Williams). Mark Robinson of Creature Features' FA party repented after Barber's chastising. The 80's saw a cadre of hard climbers out to demonstrate that difficult routes could be climbed ground up and without the use of pre-placed protection. This past weekend I saw countless top-ropes obscuring the rock at the Nears and Trapps alike. Routes with proud histories are now being top-roped by 5.8 climbers (just because you can top-rope 5.11 or 5.12 does not mean you are a 5.11 or 5.12 climber). This undermines the potential for a 5.11 or 5.12 leader to repeat a route in the style of the FA. A progressive mindset dictates that one repeat the past with the minimum being the manner of the first ascent. No reversionism please. Worse than top-roping routes into submission however is the unnecessary clutter of flashy nylon adorning the gray quartzite as fixed top-rope anchors. With the dictums established by past generations of Gunks climbers and leave no trace ethics in mind, I chose to begin the task of eliminating unnecessary clutter from the rock. I took a first step by removing years of slings off of the classic Bonnie's Roof. Many arbitrary anchors as these abound throughout the Gunks which serve no purpose other than to facilitate the ease of a top-rope ascent of a nearby route. Most of all climb safe. I'll see you out there, Brad
I don't think I've ever stumbled across a more whiney, snivilling wad of trash on this website than your post, and this is rockclimbing.com we're talking about here. True, the Gunks have seen thier fair share of ballsey FA's and repeats, but that's no reason to get on your soapbox and start pissing and moaning about toprope usage. One of the things that draws people to the Gunks is the ease in which things can be toproped, so what if you see someone toproping, who cares? People like toproping. Just because they aren't doing it in hobnail boots with a rack of 3 pins on a goldline doesn't mean they have no right to get on the route. And how does toperoping undermine anyone's potential to do anything? If you feel as though topropes get in the way of your flailing up a 5.12, get there ealier and quit bitching. Do whatever you want, just don't use cams on older routes, since by your logic, that undermines the validity of the FA. And it seems to me that someone like yourself who thinks they have the authority to tell people whether or not they're a 5.11 climber, has no business telling people whether or not they're a 5.11 climber.
Sweet jesus, I just took a minute to reread your posting, and honestly, a more putrid wad of elitist bullshit I have never heard. Congratulations, you're the reason people talk shit about the Gunks.
That being said, there is one point I will agree with you on concerning toprope usage, it's not cool if there's a party camped out on a classic route that someone will surely want to lead that day, but I don't think it's a question of ethics, more just a question of manners. They have as much right to toprope it as I would to lead it, but good manners would dictate that they let the leading party climb through, espeically if a request is made.
(This post was edited by rhythm164 on Oct 3, 2007, 3:10 PM)
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Post edited by rhythm164
() on Oct 3, 2007, 3:10 PM
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