alter_nate
Nov 19, 2007, 8:30 PM
Views: 4350
Registered: Aug 12, 2005
Posts: 30
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Although I cannot possibly speak for the Shuteye climbing community as a whole, this much I can surmise:
It goes without saying that the Sierra, especially Yosemite, has been somewhat of a bastion of traditional climbing ethics. We are blessed with tons of bullet proof granite with marvelous natural features. Almost all of the individuals who have contributed routes at Shuteye over many years, whether local or not, have contributed routes elsewhere in the Sierra and the Valley.
Now, even though top down sport routes have loosely been accepted on suitable walls at Shuteye, those who put them up are, by and large, still rooted in Sierra traditionalism. This means, in my opinion, that the rock dictates the climb and not the other way 'round. Thus, irregardless of the grade of the climb, chipping, hold enhancement, and bolting next to cracks and slingable knobs and plates, is unacceptable. Hearing of these acts saddens me. Others - who have recently climbed chipped routes - are incensed.
(This post was edited by alter_nate on Nov 20, 2007, 1:05 AM)
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