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Re: [shurafa] The V0 Dilema for New Climbers and its Effects on the Rest of Us!:
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curt
Dec 1, 2007, 7:03 PM
Views: 10430
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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shurafa wrote: olderic wrote: Ironically 30+ years ago boulder problems at the lower end of the scale were often grdaed with a YDS grdae. Gabe - find a Hammond Pond guidebook from the 70's for reference. The John Gill Scale (B1-B3) was reserved for harder stuff - beyond the reach of most mortals. What goes around comes around. I can imagine that as bouldering grew as an offshoot of traditional rope climbing and hence started with the YDS scale. I dont know why a separate scale was needed at all. I guess it would have been confusing trying to tell the difference between a 5.12b boulder problem and a top roping problem. So I guess it makes sense that they would branch off the system. Once again why start the scale at 5.10=V0. Any history buffs out there know why they decided to start the scale at such a high difficulty level?
It's basically because the activity of bouldering itself, as defined by it's early practitioners in this country, began at quite a high level. B1 defined a boulder problem with moves on it that were as hard as any moves found on a roped climb. B2 was something harder than that--and B3 was a problem that had only been done once--and not repeated. Things that were easier than that were not really considered to be "bouldering" grade, per se. Today, bouldering seems to mean any climbing done without a rope that doesn't fall into the realm of free-soloing--so, the common usage definition has clearly changed.
Curt
(This post was edited by curt on Dec 1, 2007, 7:16 PM)
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Post edited by curt
() on Dec 1, 2007, 7:16 PM
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