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Re: [andrewbanandrew] Learn about DYNAMIC BELAYS!:
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yokese
Dec 5, 2007, 1:54 AM
Views: 8505
Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 672
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andrewbanandrew wrote: hate to bump this, but I read through the entire thread and I'm curious--does leaving extra slack out have the same effect as jumping as the rope becomes weighted? Or does it just lengthen the fall?
Interestingly, I just scrapped some numbers on a piece of paper and I got to the (possibly wrong) conclusion that leaving some slack will actually increase the impact factor of the fall. The only exception is when trying to avoid a factor 2 on multipitch routes.
Please, let me know if I'm wrong:
Being y the distance from the belayer to the last piece of protection and x the distance of the climber above the last protection:
FF1 = 2x / (x+y)
Now if we add some slack (s):
FF2 = (2x + s) / (x+y+s)
FF2 > FF1 except when 2x > x+y (which would be decking on a single pitch climb).
(This post was edited by yokese on Dec 5, 2007, 1:54 AM)
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Post edited by yokese
() on Dec 5, 2007, 1:54 AM
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