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Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [gr4t] saftey pins on biner's gate: Edit Log




majid_sabet


Mar 16, 2008, 4:38 PM

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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
Re: [gr4t] saftey pins on biner's gate
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gr4t wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
I want to see some damaged pins or destroyed hook

Attention all rock climbers, please show me some proof that a pin or a hook that has acutely been damaged during drop test or an actual fall.

Here's a video you dismissed earlier http://youtube.com/watch?v=ZyVD0FBLiFQ. In this video we see a carabiner that is loaded to its breaking point. The gate is closed until it breaks, and yet magically the biner breaks at the elbow. This is proof that you will not see damaged pins or destroyed hooks. But this is not evidence that the pin/hooks does not work.

Show me a notchless style biner where the opening in the gate has been stretched around the biner's nose?

majid_sabet wrote:
Till then, MS will continue to press on this pin-hook misalignment myth.

That's right, pin-hook misalignment is a myth, and if you can't demonstrate it's not a myth, you should stop perpetuating it.

The person who conducted that pull test is BOB. He is a friend of mine and we done some testing together but unfortunately what he is showing in youtube is invalid due to fact that he is using two big fat shackle that applies forces to the middle of the biner and away from the axis line.

applying forces to the middle of the biner causes tension to be divided evenly along the both axis line which does not allow the axis line to bend. this is like applying forces to an OVAL biner which load is evenly applied till gate gives up.

So to valid his test, BOB should use a bolt hanger on one side ( to subsitute as a climbing protection) and a
smaller size cable to substitute as climber's rope under full falling load.

remember, the radius ( diameter) of the shackle pin makes a huge difference during biner's pull test and its result.

[URL=http://imageshack.us]

edit to add; there are some biners with deeper groove in the hook which engage better than others pins. Not sure about omaga biners but I have seen some improved biners out there but still, majority of commonly used biner lack from hook-pin full engagement.

Hey Bob, you got some time to break few of my biners ?


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Mar 16, 2008, 4:48 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Mar 16, 2008, 4:38 PM
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Mar 16, 2008, 4:47 PM
Post edited by majid_sabet () on Mar 16, 2008, 4:48 PM


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