Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [gblauer] Doubles, rope stretch and a sore tail bone: Edit Log




sterlingjim


Aug 17, 2008, 7:45 PM

Views: 15071

Registered: Apr 7, 2006
Posts: 251

Re: [gblauer] Doubles, rope stretch and a sore tail bone
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

gblauer wrote:
Although you read about elongation in the Mammut 8.5 MM Genesis double rope, I never really grasped the full meaning until I watched one of my climbing buddies pop off a climb from about 10 feet off the ground. (She was seconding Double Crack at the gunks, a 160 foot climb). A 9% elongation factor= ~14 1/2 feet with 160 feet of rope out.

Anyway, my friend came off and watching the rope and my friend, it looked as if the belayer (who had set up the belay using an autoblock) let her zing through the belay device. My friend hit the ground at what looked like full force, as if she was not roped up at all. She landed on her tail bone and although it's not broken, it's mighty sore and really limiting her ability to get around.

So, just another thing to think about when you are bringing up your second.

I'm not sure I understand how rope elongation came into play here. Given the part I highlighted above in particular.

Also, It should be pointed out that a single strand of half (double) has, on average, no more static elongation than a single strand of single rope. Maximum allowed for certification for half is 12% and 10% for singles. Even though 12% is allowed for half ropes the average on the market is 10% or less. My point being that, in general. half ropes have little if any more elongation than singles ropes.

From personal experience I've found that some autobloc devices don't work very well with half ropes and even worse with twins.


(This post was edited by sterlingjim on Aug 17, 2008, 8:04 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sterlingjim () on Aug 17, 2008, 8:04 PM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?