Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [lena_chita] Sport climbing. How to get yourself to climb just as hard on lead as top rope?: Edit Log




granite_grrl


Sep 23, 2008, 2:40 PM

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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Re: [lena_chita] Sport climbing. How to get yourself to climb just as hard on lead as top rope?
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lena_chita wrote:
Some people suggest practice falls to get over the fear of falling, starting with smallish falls and working up to bigger whips-- on safe terrain, of course!

I am not too big on that idea b/c I find that my fear of falling on one route doesn't translate to the other route, or my falling practice on one day doesn't translate to how comfortable I feel with falls on the next day. Some routes just feel scary-- it isn't the fall itself, but something about that route-- the exposure, etc.

But sometimes taking falls helps-- on a particular route, if I'm too scared to commit to a dynamic move, I take a fall on purpose. Then I get over it in my head-- see, you took a fall, and it was clean and O.K. This is what would happen if you throw for that hold and miss. No worse. Now DO it! It doesn't help on another route on a different day. but it helps for that particular one.
Yes, practice falls only help if they have anything to do with your problem. A general big fall won't do much to help me. My problems are with falls during specific moves at specific spots.

Example - I'm kinda scared of falling on the third bolt on my latest project when I'm going for the clipping jug above the fourth bolt. It would be kind of a long fall and I'm not as far from the ground as I'd like to be. Next time I'm out there I think I've got to take a couple of falls at that spot to see what it'll really be like.

But I think Lena is right in that you have to just get on lead and stay on lead more often. I'm starting to get to the point where I see what a pain in the ass it is to always have the rope there in front of your face when TRing. Its nicer to lead and I see pushing yourself hard when you're not getting tangled in the rope.

Edited to add the word "yes". Crazy

Edited (again) because k is no where near d. Fuck.


(This post was edited by granite_grrl on Sep 23, 2008, 3:18 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by granite_grrl () on Sep 23, 2008, 3:07 PM
Post edited by granite_grrl () on Sep 23, 2008, 3:18 PM


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