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Re: [USnavy] Sport climbing. How to get yourself to climb just as hard on lead as top rope?:
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jaablink
Sep 23, 2008, 5:19 PM
Views: 8242
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 537
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… I have never been big on sport climbing…I mostly do trad where I am responsible for protecting my partner and myself by placing as much gear as needed for that specific climb. If I don’t feel comfortable I place more gear…...… I have been training trad climbers for years. From start to eventually become very proficient leaders able to free think any situation they may get into.
First: In sport climbing it is good to know what kind of rock you are climbing. Its hardness . Any special characteristics. The ability to identify the size and make of the bolt used is a huge + (--- look here too---http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/mechbolts.htm ). The bolters name and background of him/her. When the bolts were placed…. (gear shops & locals in the area should be able to give you some of this information)
I have noticed in many , when we train in crags they are more afraid than on big walls. When they get high enough, the more exposed surroundings stimulate the production of more adrenaline. That puts them in go mode (all that cragging now paid off) and they perform without the fear of falling using all the skills that were programmed into them though practice in the crags.
I train them at lower grades most of the time - working on form , placements , technique protecting longer climbs - reading and anticipating protection points along the rout in advance ,anchors , eq , directional and so on…., and pushing the grade one day a week at near their max. They build confidence in themselves at lower grades fastest. That helps them keep a cool head when the grade is increased.
You may also want to try rehearsals on top rope with twice the amount of gear you need for added weight.
Knowledge, practice, and experience will help you conquer your fears. The rocks are not going any ware.take your time.
Perfect practice makes perfect…
(This post was edited by jaablink on Sep 23, 2008, 5:26 PM)
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Post edited by jaablink
() on Sep 23, 2008, 5:26 PM
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