Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [evanwish] The Most Bitchin Fall: Edit Log




lambone


Dec 15, 2008, 9:56 PM

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Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399

Re: [evanwish] The Most Bitchin Fall
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nice thread bump!

I don't have any "most bitchenest fall" stories.

But I may have a done one off the most "fuck yourself in the ass things right after a fall" stories...

p5 of T-Trip, I blew a red alien after backcleaning from that midway 2 bolt false anchor. I had one bolt clipped with a regular biner.

It was a nice 30ft fall into space, super fun. I was self belaying with a gri-gri and everything worked prefect. I was actually totally stoked about the fall and yelled back to my two partners at the p4 belay who were space jugging the pigs up from the ground. Woohoo! I was having a blast and they were suffering, poor bastards.

That is until...
I jugged up the line and like a dumb ass pushed my top jug all the way up to the biner...

You know, like you did back when you were a total n00b trying to learn how to clean a traversing pitch. Only I wasn't cleaning, I was leading.

So, then I repeated another even stupider manuver by releasing my gri-gri! WTF was I thinking? just wasn't I guess... So basicaly that rope that I had just fallen on which had about 100ft out directly back to the belay anchor, promptly sucked that jug soooo hard and twisted into that biner that it looked like the godamn thing was going to chop the freaking rope in half!

I first clipped a daisy to the bolt anchor, and tried to figure out what the fuck to do. Couldn't figure out anything smart and resigned to the coveted "brute force" method.

I ended up yarding back on that rope on my jug as hard as I possibly could. Felt like hauling a 500lb pig up a slab. At one point I thought my harness was going to pull off my waist because I was doing such a hard squat off the wall, nearly giving myself a hurnia.

Finally I got the jug loose and the rope wasn't looking so hot, but not chopped, so we kept going anyway...

so yeah, try not to do that...
:)


(This post was edited by lambone on Dec 15, 2008, 10:07 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by lambone () on Dec 15, 2008, 10:00 PM
Post edited by lambone () on Dec 15, 2008, 10:07 PM


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