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Re: Favorite way of making trad draws?:
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dingus
Feb 26, 2009, 5:04 PM
Views: 8105
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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That article is misleading and I don't accept the advice offered.
First of all, he states there is a chance for dropping a biner with the triple-pass thru, claims to illustrate how this can happen (I can't envision it myself). But the example he shows is not a triple pass through but a double with no twist. Completely different scenario.
Also, the sliding x method of doubling has a completely different inherent problem that bears mention:
A common method and indeed on that is illustrated in the article is to unclip one strand and let it drop. I'm sure if you're at all interested in this stuff, you will know that one of the strands extends and the other tightens to a coil around the shaft of the host biner.
With me? When the coil of sling cinches around the shaft of the host biner, the coil will eithe be closer to the gate or not, one or the other (this depends upon which strand was dropped).
If that coil of sling is on the gate side? It can cinch up on the gate hinge itself. This is particularly notable with wire gate biners - more often than not if you drop the strand that causes the loop to be on the gate side? It will cinch on the gate hinge itself, becasue this area in a wiregate has lots of bumps and irregularities to catch on.
That strand, cinched on the gate... in my *opinion* sets up a potential for catastrophic failure of the biner.
I used the sliding x method of doubleing runners for some 2.5 decades. I was shown the pass thru triple but resisted.
Then I started noticing this gate cinching effect - and once noticed, I noticed it A LOT. I also noted it could happen even after the leader took care to insure it didn't - the normal movement of the rope as the leader climbs can and does cause that loop of sling to move around.
So much so in fact that even when doubled? I unclip the cinch loop as a second step, every time now. I've become really paranoid about that cinch loop levering open the gate during a fall.
Eventually I stopped using the sliding x double method entirely in favor of the triple pass thru. The triple method does not produce this 'residual' loop that can (I think) lever open the gate.
Lastly, quad method also shown - I've also used that for decades, literally. Sliding out from quad to double isn't smooth and generally the strands won't self-equalize. I still do it for storage purposes but generally unfurl the entire thing and then reshorten to purpose - I've found this fastrer and less troubesome.
I don't mean to pick that article apart, but I think the observations above are correct.
Comments?
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Feb 26, 2009, 5:06 PM)
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Post edited by dingus
() on Feb 26, 2009, 5:06 PM
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